What are you feeding your Corgi?  Looking for recommendations!  I would like to stick with a brand offering at least 30% protein and 18% fat.

I'm also curious about the whole yogurt thing.  I've never seen it recommended as being mixed with dog food before...but seems as though it is offered as the "thing to do" for Corgis.  Just curious why?

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I guess in general I need to know what is proper to be fed.  The breeder says "no more puppy food" (due to bone growth issues) and a couple spoons per day of yogurt.  Whenever I look up Corgi feeding instructions, I see this 'yogurt thing'...that's why I thought it had something in-particular to do with Corgis.

Right now my pup is being fed Nutra Nuggets (adult formula) and yogurt by the breeder.  I cannot get Nutra Nuggets where I live.  I want to feed a high quality diet and try to stay away from all the corn and wheat.  Of course, more meat = more protein.  I haven't read anywhere yet that TOO much protein is bad for corgis and/or puppies...but then again, I am learning.  I guess more research is needed.

If anyone can tell me what brand they fed their corgis when they were puppies, that would be a good beginning start for me.  Thank you!

HI Amanda...I suggest you check out Dog Food Analysis. It rates dog food but also gives all the ingredients for you to see and the protein level. I have always used either TOTW  or Canidea with my pups BUT you do have to check the protein levels as each bag is different. The salmon(TOTW) and Canidea All life stages are good ones. I believe Canidea also has a puppy formula but make sure the protein is low enough.

The reason Corgis are considered large breed is because it really does take 18 months to 2 years for their full development. They will get their height and length by the time they are a year but then it takes another 6-12 months to put on muscle and grow into a healthy corgi. Too much protein makes them mature too fast(small puppy food when they really need the lower protein to grow slowly.  I use 24% and believe that's ok. It's also grain free.

My puppy doesn't eat right so she gets probably more potty treats than kibble >_> but the breeder had her on Wellness Super5Mix Puppy which is what I'm feeding her right now. I'm hoping to switch to TOTW if she'll eat it. My breeder said not to transition her to adult food until 9 months, or 1 year if transitioning to grain free, possibly because of the same protein ratio reason.

You can transition right now if it's a good food for a pup. Just VERY slowly...like over 2 weeks. I've had pups on TOTW since they started eating and recommend the salmon. Corgis should be on puppy food or a good grain free at least till 18 mo.-2 years. They are large breed pups. I use sample dog food for treats and 1 piece is plenty...you don't want to start a bad habit with treats. They are necessary but only in tiny amounts.

That's how dogs become finicky eaters...too many treats:(

I often mix a little yogurt with Tipper's food because I read that it's good for dogs in small portions. I asked my vet about it and she said it's okay to give her a little dairy if it agrees with her

When we took Napolean home from the breeders at 10weeks old he told us the mix iams puppy food with mountain high yogurt. He had that until he was a year old then we took out the yogurt and switched to science diet. Breeder said it was good for the bones.

This whole issue is confusing between switching to adult food when still a puppy and trying to find a lower protein percentage food.  On top of that is finding a food that your puppy will like.  I am fortunate that Phoebe likes most foods - if she doesn't like a treat or food she sometimes won't even put it in her mouth based on smell.  I am using Merrick and did switch from the puppy to the adult as she reached 6 months but both are 30% protein.  Got a sample of Holistic Select which she wouldn't touch - that is 22% protein but she does like TOTW (thanks for recommendation Jane) so now I am going to switch her to that gradually. 

I asked a vet (not my own) her opinion of all this and she said something interesting.  About 20% of the protein intake goes to the reproductive system so once a female is spayed the protein requirement is less.  Now I know that the reason for the low protein is to create slower growth in corgis but thought you all would be interested in this factor as well.

I really appreciate all of this information sharing - to those of you who have been corgi owners for years and are soooo knowledgeable - where do you get your information?  How do you know so much about all aspects of corgi life?  Thanks for sharing it and thanks for the site, Sam!

I'm consumed with the dog food issue because it seems that I receive recalls on dog food almost every day from the Dog Food Advisor. I truly believe that feeding your dog the best diet you can afford, reduces vet bills and increases quality of life. I started out feeding Tipper Natural Balance dry food with a topper of wet Natural Balance. She loved it but my vet said it was just an average food. So I started doing research. There is a video on the web where the vet says the best diet is all meat raw....next best is an all meat diet that is home cooked, and then top quality wet dog food sold in pet stores...and after that -- top quality dry dog food. At the bottom of the list was the dog food sold in supermarkets...wet is better than the dry supermarket brands. The vet said that dogs should never eat grain.

Recently, I've been feeding Tipper Orijen dry (thanks to the great advice of someone on this list!) with a topper of PetGuard Beef. After reading up on breed-specific diets, I read that Cardigan Corgi's fare better on a beef diet...at least, in theory. She is doing very well with the combination. Her fur is super shiny and she has tons of energy.

It's not inexpensive though. Shopping at Mr. Chewy saves me state tax and when I order $49 my order ships for free, plus I save a few $$$ on the Orijen and PetGuard shopping there, compared to other online stores.

It is very confusing and what works for one may not work for another dog. I recently tried a different food for my rescues since the Canidae went up $10 per bag. Well...it didn't work and so both are back on the Canidae.

Mine have been on TOTW also and I love it. My dogs get a fair amount of exercise and their is a wide variety of protein mine do well on all of them. Cheaper dog food many times have corn or higher carbs. Just like people...too many carbs=weight gain:(

I do not agree with the statement about needing  more protein for female reproductive organs, that in itself may be true but good protein sources are needed for many things. If you look at dogs in the wild...they many times had high protein along with whatever else they could find. They also suggest a higher protein diet for people who have been ill too.

Pups is another story...since they are considered a large breed and do not fully mature till 18-24 months...the higher protein makes them grow too fast when they need good but lower protein(22-24%) to slowly mature for the 1st 2 years and then they can have higher protein.

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