We've all experienced this I'm sure, but now it's my turn to: Nellie pulls like mad on leash on walks, to the point of coughing and choking and wheezing. I'd really love to be able to take her out on walks now that she can go out but I don't want her to crush her own windpipe or something. I tried making a makeshift no-pull harness by manipulating the leash around her legs/chest, and at that point she would refuse to walk. I currently have a Gentle Leader coming to me in the mail by my breeder's suggestion (her breeding partner currently uses one for a similarly feisty Aussie) but have heard those also cause temper tantrums in dogs that don't take to them... and knowing Nellie's personality, she definitely will have trouble taking to it.

Loose leash training with her has been hard. I kind of gave up on it because she almost never looks at me while on leash, even inside the house where distractions are low. Same story outside in the yard. I was kind of successful a few times when she DID check in but I'd say 99% of the time she does not. She'll do it of course if she can smell treats on me.

What would be a good course of action for me? Do loose leash work inside/in yard, gradually moving outside, and then put the GL on for walks so at least she doesn't get in the habit of pulling? Does anyone else here have experience with the GL head harness and have any tips on how to teach dogs to accept the GL?

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I always use a harness for walks. We have a no pull harness right now. If she tries to pull I plant my feet and will not walk again until they stop pulling. Eventually they figure out that no pulling = a walk.

My mom uses the gentle leader on her giant German Shepard. Try putting on the gentle leader around the house and playing games and with lots of treats and praise so the gentle leader has positive connotations. Myom has even found the gentle leader to be a great tool when she has guests over. It just kinda mellows out and makes her dog more submissive in general.

How tired is the pup when starting the walks? Try getting some of the energy out with games and play at home. Then do some training, sit, stay, etc, some basic stuff and training new things so that the puppy is out of energy then put into a listening and training mode and then enter the walk.
Make walks for business. Not for sniffing. Walk actively and quickly. The dog gets to sniff and greet when you say its OK.
Try picking up the pace in general and change directions lots of times. Stop right where you are and walk the other direction if Nellie starts to get ahead of you. If its a constant game of following you because of speed, not the same route, same spots etc every time she's more likely to pay attention.
Don't be afraid to use treats - not to give them but to keep the focus. Wave that high quality treat in front of her face, the smell will grab her attention. Start walking with purpose. She starts pulling (keep the leash short so this pull only goes just barely past your feet) then instantly change directions. Etc Etc. Give her a reason to follow, and walk fast and purposeful rather than making walks the way to burn energy and explore.

That's great. Nellie isn't too bad around the house but around other dogs she is pretty cray cray.

I tried the changing direction trick while we were in the parking lot for just a few yards. It seemed to work pretty well! We'll see how she does on an actual walk. I think doing that + treating her in heel position might work.

Just be careful with the gentle leader if she goes forward fast and it stops her you could cause pretty severe neck injury. Really the best way to stop the pulling is to stop as soon as she pulls and change direction with a nice chirpy command (ex. Let's go") and do it every time she pulls. This requires patience but does work. Have you taught a "watch me" command. Just say "look" or "watch me" and as soon as she looks at you give a treat. If she is like mine and knows you have treats hold it up by your face so she looks up and then say it. Practice this and she will look at you whenever you say it. It took awhile with my "thick headed" dobe but even she will do it. The corgis learned it almost immediately!

Right, I heard that clipping the leash to both the GL and the normal flat collar will help with the whiplash so I plan to do that. That is, if she actually will walk with the GL.

The changing direction trick seems to work, eventually she will just end up walking at heel it seems. I wasn't doing an actual training session so hopefully she'll repeat that behavior and I'll be able to reward it.

I'm attempting to teach the look command.. she's okay at staring into me just randomly when we're in the house, but once I give it a name (watch) she'll dart her eyes back and forth and not be able to look me in the eye for longer than a second.

I'd get a treat pouch and use that on your walks. You can practice inside or in the yard too until she is better around distractions.

She tends to ignore the clicker in very high distraction areas such as the outside, so starting slower would probably be better. I think the advice of changing direction may be good for a while with heel work so hopefully she will be responsive to that. Thank you :)

Martingale collar, when she pulls turn immediately and go the other direction or STOP. you need to be consistent but it works. Keep walking even if she stops.

I agree with Jane and some of the others about the martingale collar and treats. Also, try to vary your energy when taking walks, be silly  then fast then slow, etc. Maybe that will keep her interest. If she flops, try treats or backing up and running passed her. It might trigger her chasing instinct.

Have you considered obedience classes? They are a great way to not only learn how to deal with leash training, but also build your relationship, teach her you are the boss, teach you how to be the boss, and deal with any number of other issue you may be having that you don't realize may be causing some of your current problems.  A lot of places offer fairly inexpensive classes.  In my area, the local community college offers classes every semester (spring, summer, fall & winter) for only $65 for 8 weeks.  Many vet offices can direct you to classes in your area.  You can shop around for a trainer who's methods are in line with how you prefer to train your dog. My last class' instructor did not believe in ever telling your dog "no", you had to politely ask your dog to do everything, but her methods still worked. I have taken Frosty to basic obedience three times now. Not because he needs it, but because it is a great way for him to get some socialization.  Really, I highly, highly recommend you look into some classes, they are great for you both!

I agree with Chris...I also learned as much or more than my dogs. have done several and they were well worth it!

We bought a star mark training collar. One walk with it and our pulling problem was solved. I tried it on myself first because I didn't want to hurt my little man. We couldn't get anything else to work before that.

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