Discussion Closed but here are my thoughts

There was a discussion posted that I was too late to get in on, but I would like to post a few observations about.

The title of the discussion was "How to Shop for a Corgi". I will put my comments beneath each paragraph that was previously posted.


Pups are sold when they are 8 weeks old. At this time the ears should be standing up on the corgi. If the ears are not up, then make sure the breeder explains how to get them to stand up. More calcium, massaging, and taping are the customory ways and can be challenging, therefore try to get a Corgi with it's ears up. Ears being down can also be a sign of possible worms, or bad diet.


It is very common for ears to be down in an 8 week old puppy and from my experience has nothing to do with worms or bad diet - has to do with the size and shape of the ear as well as the amount of bone in the dog's legs (growing bone saps calcium from the formation of cartilage, which is what makes the ears stand) A large boned puppy will have the correct bone density as an adult and be the sturdy dog that is required by the standard. This means it is actually more desirable for the ears to be down at 8 weeks.




Every Corgi should have a little white on them, but not be predominatey white. White is only allowed on the feet, chest, around the collar, stripe on head, and on the underbody. Any white on there backs is a default, and is not suppose to be bred by the breeder.

While this is true, big white collars are not mismarks, nor is white that comes up the stifle. And white markings of course are completely cosmetic, these dogs make the same wonderful pets even if mismarked.

Every Pembroke Welsh Corgi should have redish brown eyes. Blue eyes are not allowed. Cardigans even have redish brown eyes. The only exception is Blue Myrle Cardigans that can have blue. If your Pembroke has Blue eyes, then it is probably part Blue Myrle Cardigan.

Pembrokes should have dark brown eyes. Blue eyes do occur in Pembrokes and this is not an indication that the dog has mixed heritage. It is rare, but it does occur.


Every Corgi should be docked. Their natural tails are very long and brittle. If you leave the tail, a step on it could break the tail and be costly at the Vet. If your Corgi herds, a tail is hazardous since Cows will try to bite and step on the tail. Corgis are preferred to have a flat rump with no sign of a tail. However, they can have upto a 2" stub.

Think about it - A Cardigan has a tail and it was bred to herd cattle also.........Pems tails, if left natural and not docked, can be any length from a short bob to a tail as long as a Cardigan's. It may curl over the back or be held down. If you search the net you will find photos of Pems in countries where docking is banned.

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Tri Corgis are different in that nearly all of them are born with Blackheads and mostly black bodys with some red and white markings. As the Tris grow, most of their heads will turn to red since red is the dominate color in Corgis. Blackheaded Tris do exist but to insure that your puppy will be a blackheaded tri, then both parents should be blackheaded tris. If one parent is blackheaded and one is Red, then most likely the pups head even though it is black as a puppy will most likely turn to red as it grows.

A Blackheaded tricolor can have 2 red parents. It all depends on which color gene the parent is "hiding" - black head, or red head. Coat color genetics in the Corgi is very interesting and most reputable breeders can fill you in on the inheritance patterns if you are curious.



Now if you''ve purchased a 8 week old puppy that was 5-6 lbs, your adult is less than 22 lbs, it has white on its back, has blue eyes, has very short hair, or has very fluffy hair... Then at this point the Breeder has ripped you off. If you paid less than $200 with papers it's not so bad. But if you paid over $250 then you should have received a more proper corgi for your money.

A fluffy, blue eyed mismarked puppy can result from the best bloodlines out of completely health tested parents. This puppy makes no worse a pet as it's more "correct" littermates, so it's price is bound to be comparable. Puppies from well bred and completely health tested parents, coming from a reputable breeder under a good solid sales contract will run between $500 and $1000 depending on availabilty and location. I would be VERY leery of a $250 puppy.

In the end, a Corgi should be a Corgi and you should receive one when you pay for one. Don't let a bad breeder rip you off

a hint about getting "ripped off" - check around and see what you should be asking a breeder and don't be offended if they interview you as a home.

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Comment by Alice on April 14, 2009 at 3:27pm
I missed this discussion as well. I agree that the information originally given is not accurate and I'm glad you corrected them.
Comment by Brenda Stiles on April 14, 2009 at 1:09pm
Yes, this article was written by my friend and long time PWC newsletter co-editor, Patti Gustafson. We spent many years researching the presence of what we call the "sable" gene in Corgis, since none of the geneticists recognized this coloration in our breed. It is the best reference of all for defining coat color inheritance in Pems. Because of my long line of sables, I am certainly partial to knowing how color genes "work". The puppy in my profile photo is actually a sable headed red. As an adult, I suspect she will lose all of those darling little pencil marks because she is what we call a faux sable - only sables who have a black headed tri gene are what we call true sables.
Comment by John Wolff on April 14, 2009 at 12:59pm
coat color genetics article from PWCCA website:
PWC coat color genetics
Comment by Wendt Worth Corgi's on April 14, 2009 at 12:34pm
Wow..I missed this discussion and I have to agree w/your comments on the other comments that were in the discussion. Thank you for taking the time to clarifying some of these misconceptions.

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