I have been a fan of the show "dog whsiperer" by Cesar Millan. I have tried to be the "pack leader" and walk my dogs, it works very well with mocha, he submits to my authority and walk along me, however my little one Vienna always try to lead me, we have tried using the "gentle leader", semi choke chain of sorts and she still pulls. Do you have any tips?

Tags: corgi, pulling, walks

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First of all, I love Cesar Millan!

Anyhow, my Kiki had a problem for a long time with being the one walking us. She now is fairly obedient and will heel, stop, and sit when commanded to do so during walks.

Vienna may be more of a dominant personality than Mocha, and she will therefore need a little more work! Corgis are smart and stubborn, but they'll learn who's boss. Kiki is a dominant personality type, but she listens to us!
is the gentle leader the one with the clip in the front?

We tried allot of things and then we got a harness with the clip on her chest.
It worked great because instead of pulling, whenever she tried to go forward too far, it just made her loop around and frustrated her.
so eventually she's learned not to tug.

The other thing I've seen done with Rotties is when the dog pulls forward you stop and start walking backwards every time. Eventually this also frustrates the dog so it constantly watches you.

Though it took her several days and at first it took her 45 min to get down the street but eventually they looked great.
The best way to train a corgi is to use either a standard collar or a chest harness and a 6' leash. Take a handful of treats broken into small pieces. Start out on the walk and every time the dog pulls on the leash stop and stand still till the dog stops pulling. When the dog stops pulling commend the dog and give it a treat. Start walking again and repeat. After a few times and some brush up over a few weeks the pulling will end.
I have been walking Brynn for weeks and yesterday she refused to walk !! When she saw other people she would try and walk with them , but after they left us she wouldn't budge . I don't know what i am doing wrong .I tried tugging etc.. and it made her angry . Any ideas ? Also if i take her in the car and we walk she is fine . I have read stuff that you have to make it a fun time , but i really don't want to use treats to bribe her to come on a walk . I have brought toys , but she loses interest quickly .
If she is completely stopping and pulling backwards, or sitting/lying down, you might try this. First make sure the leash is loose. If she is "backpeddling", give her a sit command to get her to calm down and get the slack back in the leash. Next, face her and make happy noises while you walk backwards away from her (but facing her) somewhat crouched down. Happy noises can be "Brynn! C'mon, c'mon, c'mon!" or clucking, or kissing noises...anything that gets her excited to move toward you. You can clap your hands, squeak a toy, or offer a treat while you're backing up. Once she gets up and is moving forward, turn around in normal walk position and KEEP MOVING. Praise her for walking with you, even for a few feet. Like any other training, it can be frustrating to only make a tiny bit of progress at a time, but consistency usually pays off.

Charlie has a tendency to want to lag behind me while we are walking away from the house, and pull me when we turn around to come home. I drag him out; he drags me home. LOL We're working on developing good leash habits too! Those few minutes per walk where you're so in sync, walking side-by-side and you can't even tell there is a dog at the end of the loose leash, make all the stopping and starting over worthwhile!
One of the things I do with these guys is as soon as they start putting pressure on the lead I change direction or pivot in a circle so it breaks that forward motion. Most will learn to associate that once they pull you will change. The have a tendency to pay more attention to you as well. Not sure if you ever use a flexi-lead but if you do I would recommend a much shorter lead. Not sure just why folks think dogs need to walk so far ahead. They still walk the same distance and at the same speed if they are beside you. Only use I have for these is distance training or a dog that has limited activity so they can have a tad more freedom in a small space.
Regarding Riley who stops at every thing to sniff it is because he is allowed to. My dogs get a "free" moment during our walks to sniff. When we are walking sniffing is not allowed. They learn very quickly if you are consistent about it.
I am not a big fan of harnesses on dogs as I feel it encourages them to pull. The gentle leader works great on some.
I have found some pups that do the "shut down" behavior when walking. I found this to be more frequent if they were near their house and wanted the comfort level of being in a familiar place. Usually once I got a house or two away they walked fine. If they are not truly "dragging" when you go forward I would just keep walking. Most wont fight it to long. The more of an issue we make about it the more of an issue they make about it.
Thanks for your replies Chris and Sam :) Brynn was back to normal yesterday . thank god ! I think it was cause she didn't want to walk and we were so close to our house . We walked her twice yesterday and she was at my side the whole time like a good girl .I find if we drive else where she is even better .We took her to the waterfront last night and she walked for almost an hour ! We walked slowly and she does let us know if she is tired . I'll keep you informed if i am still having
problems later .Oh , and she does much better if we are together walking with her then just one of us :) I like the idea of one free moment to let her sniff around , but i hated walking dogs i house sat for that had to stop every 2 min, to sniff.
We used to have the same problem with Penelope. We had one of those long retractable leashes, so our trainer recommended a 4 ft leash and a martingale collar; it is a narrow nylon collar with a small chain with a loop, so it tightens a bit when you pull back. the trick is to get it as far up their neck (toward their head) as you can. It has helped alot. It takes awhile for dogs to get used to it, but you just have to use it consistantly.
Brynn still is having some problems walking , but so much better now. On our walk last night we saw a 9 month old Corgi (seems our neighborhood is Corgi central) and we had to pick up Brynn as we always do since she hasn't had her last shots yet , and the owner was kinda negative telling us we better be ready for a very hyper dog . I was like yeah we know ... I just hope i don't sound like he did after a year with my girl . :) We try and walk her 3 times a day . 2 short walks and one longer one at night .We take her with us a lot and waiting for her to play with other dogs besides my sisters .Brynn LOVES people so much and seems hurt if they don't love her back .
That's sad that the owner was negative about his 9 month old. Of course dogs (of all breeds) are "hyper" when they go through adolesence (from 6 months up to as long as 2 years old). At least dog adolesence doesn't last as long as the human teenage phase. LOL Charlie just started his "teenage" months and is "mis"-behaving in a few ways different from his sweet puppy months, but that's to be expected.

The most helpful thing to do is exactly what you are already doing....lots of exercise and consistent training! Brynn is still in her sweet phase, I'm sure! :)
What is Charlie doing differently ? Please share :))
He's starting to test whether or not he has to obey commands which he learned well and obeyed as a puppy: selective hearing, being slow to respond (looking at me like "Do I have to?"), occassional flat refusal to obey.

Higher energy level and reversion to some puppy habits: Jumping up on people for attention (just when he finally learned not to do that about a month earlier), mouthing, not wanting to come back inside after playing in the yard. Coming when called, but then playing "catch me if you can" when I reach for him.

More dominant behavior with other dogs: testing his pack position. (Adult dogs usually tolerate puppy antics, but will put an "unruly teenager" in their place.) Charlie was shocked at the dog park this weekend when one or two dogs gave him a warning bark for behavior he had "gotten away with" just a month or so earlier.

Marking "inappropriate" territory: This is the most embarassing behavior. I had taken Charlie to PetSmart and other pet stores numerous times with perfect behavior. About two weeks ago, I took him shopping, and he marked ten different places in the store in about 8 minutes. (I had to go ask for paper towels numerous times, then finally leave the store earlier than intended.) He ran inside my neighbors' house and marked their dogs' bed. He also decided it was a good idea to mark people's pants legs at the park. Neutering is supposed to help, but doesn't always stop marking behavior. Training him where to mark (it's ok to mark a tree or shrub, but a human's leg or anywhere inside is not ok) is the new "top-of-the-list" priority.

Some days he reverts back to perfectly obedient sweet puppy, and some days he's more bratty teenager. I know it will get worse before it gets better. The nice thing is knowing that your puppy is going to test your sanity during adolescence and that this phase will pass. The house rules he learned "yesterday" have to be re-enforced today...it's just tougher with a teenager. Awareness, patience, sense of humor, exercise and training consistency (and a bit of sympathy for what the dog is going through physically and mentally) will get us through this with flying colors. Dogs can teach us so much! :)

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