This is information I have put together to help me make a decision on food to feed our dog. Maybe it will help some others out as well. I will attempt to attach my file, not a computer whizz so hope I do it right.

This is strictly information I have come across in magazines, television or on line. I am not advocating one thing or the other or for that matter any particular brand or type of dog food. I found it very confusing, after 13 years of not having a puppy around, as to what type of food to feed our puppy. So being a list person I started a list. Here it is, this is simply what I will be looking for. Warning it is long but maybe it will help you out as well. There are 3 types of food—Canned, Dry or Homemade Diets.

1. Ingredients are listed in descending order on packages, predominance by weight.
2. Meat first—versus meat meals or by-products. Meats can be beef, chicken, lamb or fish.
3. Should state complete and balanced
4. Grains—avoid low-end carbs such as wheat middling’s, gluten and rice mill by-products
5. Rice and potato may be easier to digest—but properly processed and cooked corn or wheat is well tolerated by most dogs.
6. Carbs should follow meat on the list of ingredients
Canned: Usually contains minimal or no grain, can be expensive and the primary ingredient is water.
Dry Food (Kibble): Offers easy-to-measure and stores nicely. By design, dry food must contain high levels of grains or starches in order to bake into a hardened, kibbled form. Has the added benefit of helping to scrape plaque from a dogs teeth, but does not eliminate the need for proper dental hygiene.
When choosing between kibble and canned food, it is important to understand that as long as the label has a statement of nutritional adequacy, (either by comparison to nutrient profiles or by feeding trials); the diet will provide appropriate nutrition for your dog.
Fixed-formula—unless guaranteeing a fixed (non-changing) formula some pet food manufacturers can and do alter the ingredients without warning. Depending on the capricious nature of ingredient availability and pricing. These changes in ingredient(s) could be causing intermittent, mild vomiting, diarrhea, itchy skin or terrible intestinal gas in your dog.
Supplements—need to be careful with these. There are danger in over nutrition—some vets have seen cases of corneal dystrophy (a degenerative eye condition) caused by supplements.
Avoiding over nutrition in puppies is especially important. “A Corgi is a big dog in a small body” there may be some truth in that saying. Seems Corgis have the bone structure of a bigger dog. Being an active working breed they are more susceptible to abnormal bone growth, so say some vets. Large breed formula designed to prevent rapid bone growth is one I will be checking in to.
Dyes—will be avoiding foods with dyes in them. This is immaterial to the dog and is put in to make the food more attractive to humans so unless you are sneaking your dogs kibble, why the dye? Also no knows the negative things colored dyes may be doing to your pet or you if you can’t stay out of the kibble.
Homemade diets—this can be time consuming so for convenience kibble or canned usually win hands down. Veterinarians raise a valid concern about the loss of nutrients during the intense heat required to process kibble and canned diets. As well as with long storage periods nutrients in prepackaged foods can degrade or become rancid, including vitamins and oils. Diets made in small batches with fresh, whole ingredients offer unparalleled level of nutrient availability. You can choose organically produced meats, vegetables and grains. While avoiding agricultural chemical, antibiotics and hormones via food sources. Those who choose this route have a lot of quality control. With that said most homemade diets are not being tested for nutritional completeness. It is difficult to cook homemade diets and ensure meeting all the nutritional needs. Published recipes appear everywhere; don’t assume that just because it is in print it is formulated properly. Have the recipe evaluated by a nutritionist or only use those recipes verified to be complete and balanced by comparison to American Association of Feed Control Officials nutrient profiles.
Buying from a company that conducts or sponsors “published” research in canine nutrition. This is not testimonials—you want scientific facts.
Body conditioning—this has replaced “weight” in veterinary medical record keeping to clarify whether any given weight is healthy for an individual dog. Your vet can provide an illustrative chart and instructions on how to body condition score your own dog.
Obesity—estimated ideal weights for Pembroke’s are: males, 26 to 30 pounds with 27 pounds being ideal, females, 22 to 28 pounds ideal being 25, Cardigans males, 30 to 38 pounds and females 25 to 34 pounds. Obesity is defined as dogs weighing 15% or more than its ideal.
Puppies—need to be fed 3 times a day they have smaller stomachs and burn more calories than adults, so they thrive on smaller more frequent meals. Adult dogs fed 2 times a day. Blood sugar levels can drop too low on a once daily feeding regimens, even in adults.
Examining the effects of the food you choose:
1. Look at body condition
2. Your dog’s skin and coat condition. Skin should not be flaky or itchy and coats should be plush and shiny, not dry or brittle.
3. Check stool consistency good digestion produces a small, firm stool.
4. Does your dog have a sufficient energy level for exercise and play?
5. Immune system does your dog enjoy overall good health, or suffer digestive, skin, respiratory or urinary tract problems?
Switching foods—this should be done gradually, mixing the new in with the old if at all possible. This goes for adult dogs as well as puppies. Especially when you first bring home the new addition, there are enough changes going on for the little guy or gal. So at first try to keep them on what they have been fed at the breeders etc.

So as for our decision we are going with kibble. Canned are too expensive, mostly water and the dental thing. Homemade is too time consuming, I would rather spend time with the dog, plus I was thinking if I were to get ill still have to cook the dogs food, go on vacation or boarding could create problems. Plus with processed food they have already done the nutritional testing for complete and balanced.
Now my choice is not for everyone but then I am not making your decision for you. This is just information I have come across that has helped me make my decision. Nothing replaces doing your own investigation for facts that are important to you. Having made our choice this is what I will be looking for in a kibble:
1. Puppy formula(probably what the breeder is using) for first 12 to 14 months—will start the switch to adult food slowly introducing into diet on veterinarians recommendations.
2. Meat first ingredient followed by carbs.
3. If at all possible a fixed formula by a company that conducts or sponsors “published” research.
4. No colored dyes, mainly red or green.
5. Have decided that, again if possible, will avoid any food that has the word” by-product” listed in the ingredients. Figure this should stand for bye-bye dog food. Most everything I have read on “by-products” has not been good.
Have I figured out which brand yet? No, but I will and soon because in less than 3 weeks we will have our little Samantha here with us. I do hope this helps.

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I've always heard that specifically named meat meals are actually better than just plain named meat (named meaning nothing general like "poultry") because the latter is actually listed in the order of ingredients before the moisture is taken out making the actual content less than what it seems. Since meals have the moisture already taken out, this is not the case.

But you gave a lot of helpful info. Thanks!
I probably should have been a little more clear on "meat" when I was writing this. Meat ingredients, whether beef, chicken, lamb or fish, contain easily digested porteins as well as the best balance on amino acids-building blocks of proteins versus meat meals or by-product. From what I have been able to find out meat meal consists of ground up skin, muscle, internal organs and bone. You are right on the general term "poultry" should be specific at least that is what I am looking at when I read the ingredients list. I am going to investigate the meat-meal thing further though. Thanks.
Well, that would make sense I guess. I believe if it's a high quality brand food (like Canidae, Orijen, Innova, Wellness), you shouldn't have to worry about low quality meals, but I don't really have any real knowledge of this subject, only passing on something I heard. I'm just wondering though, are skin, bone, and organs really bad for dogs? I know the skin could be fatty, and certain organs like the liver can contain toxins or too much of a certain chemical or something, but wouldn't a wolf or dog in the wild eat the organs of a carcass as well as some skin and bone? I'm sure it would be in a different proportion than what might be found in a bad quality meal though.
Abbea I appreciate you passing on what you heard. Kicked me into gear to look that up and read on it...I kept meaning to and just was putting it off. You are right it is what they would eat in the wild. But I was thinking that we have domesticated them (or they have let us :) ) and the dog food companies do add stuff that makes it smell good and I read that if not heated to the proper temp. it can be contaminated they might not be able to tell it was bad for them by the smell. I was looking at Innova, Wellness and Chicken Soup for the Soul Dog Food. We may slowly switch her to the Chicken Soup one. Unless I find something better. Funny I know I don't read the labels of our food as much or as closely as I am reading dog food labels for her. Information of any kind is good no matter what it is on. So again thanks for passing it on.
No problem. Thanks for posting this discussion. :) That makes sense too that if they add stuff to make it smell good the dog could still eat it even if it's gone bad. And organs like intestines couldn't be very clean especially in a mass produced dog food. I've heard good things about Chicken Soup for the Dog Soul as well, I just always forget about it for some reason. Probably the name is too long and sounds like those books.. Hehe. And I read dog food labels (at the store) more often than human food labels... and I don't have a dog.. :(
Sounds like you are on the right track. You should also avoid foods containing corn, soy or wheat. Most of the premium dog foods such as Wellness, Blue Buffalo, Canidae etc do not use these ingredients anyway. Another thing that is good to know is that since Corgis have the bone structure of a large dog, it is advised that you not feed your Corgi puppy food past the age of 6 months. The protein level in puppy food is too high for them at that point and it is believed that this can contribute to the development of Pano and other growth problems. Baring the protein issue in mind, it would also seem that a grain free food would not be ideal for a Corgi since grain free food have a much higher protein level. I wanted to feed our Cardi a grain free food because the ingredients sounded great but based on the protein level I decided against it. Just a little info to keep in mind as you start shopping for food. :)
Our Corgi is 7 months and we still feed him puppy food- Solid Gold. I have heard many different opinions about when to change to adult food - 6, 9, 12 months, etc. I'm guessing it should be okay to switch after he's done with his current bag. Also, I was thinking of switching of Canidae All Life Stages. Does anyone know if this would be a good switch since it is for all life stages?

We tried Wellness Super5mix a couple months ago but Max got an eye infection right around the time we switched. I wasn't sure if the food was a result (allergic) or maybe he just got into something but we decided not to fully switch. He didn't seem too eager to eat it as well.
Finnigan is 7 months and we are mixing in adult food now to get him switched over. He was developing a limp and it could be Pano or something totally different but I figured why take the chance, let's just get him onto the adult food. We are feeding him Wellness Super5Mix adult food. I wonder if that is what caused your dog's eye infection. So far Finn has had no problems with it but he's only been eating it for 3 or 4 days now. If it doesn't work out for him we would probably go back to Blue Buffalo. We fed him their puppy food and he liked it, the only reason we decided to try another brand s because he has always been very gassy and I wonder if it is from the food. As for Canidae, a lot of people like their food but I have not tried it. As far as the All Life Stages formula, the ingredients seem ok, though they use strictly meat meal and I don't see that they have anything to support bone and joint health such as glucosamine or chondroitin and I think that would be important for a Corgi just as it is for large breed dogs. Orijen sounded like a very good food but it is also bit expensive which is why we went for the Wellness instead.

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