Dominance and Training
At about 7 weeks old, little Freya--the 4 pound corgi thinks she is able to dominate me. I'm not having it. I've had to put her in submission hold 3 times this weekend. She tried to bite my face when I was putting her to bed when she didn't want to go. Actually, she tries to bite a lot. She's got our Weimaraner in control for the most part.
So, seeing her actions so far. I am almost certain she needs training. I just need some advice. I want to start the Petsmart classes when she's older. Until then, is there any books that could help or any tips you guys have?
I will say that she isn't a bad dog. She's just insanely smart. She's fairly good at the come command and actually knows her name. Right now, she's doing really good at potty training--whatever accidents that happen are my fault.
So, seeing her actions so far. I am almost certain she needs training. I just need some advice. I want to start the Petsmart classes when she's older. Until then, is there any books that could help or any tips you guys have?
I will say that she isn't a bad dog. She's just insanely smart. She's fairly good at the come command and actually knows her name. Right now, she's doing really good at potty training--whatever accidents that happen are my fault.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Wendt Worth Corgi's on
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http://www.dogaggressiontraining.com/ here is a site of several top dog trainers that might be able to help you. How long have you had your pup if she's only 7 weeks old? Here is another article that you may find interesting as well.
EMOTIONAL, PHYSICAL, AND MENTAL DEVELOPMENT OF PUPPIES
Puppies–who doesn’t love the sweet breath and attitude of a wiggly, adorable pup? But, puppies grow up
quick. And to keep them sweet and willing, owners must understand a little bit about the growth and development of
their charges.
The following is a general discussion of critical periods in a dog’s emotional, mental, and physical
development. If a critical learning period is missed, although a dog may be trained, its basic and natural reactions are
permanently affected and its full potential will never be reached. Missing one or all of these periods may cause a
puppy to become emotionally and mentally handicapped in its social interactions with other animals and humans–for
life.
Puppies cannot be taught anything prior to 21 days. They need only to be kept clean, warm, dry, (between 80
and 90 degrees) and allowed to nurse and sleep. These needs are usually met by the dam (mother dog.)
On average, puppies open their eyes somewhere between 11 to 19 days, with 13 days being average.
Puppies cannot hear anything before three weeks of age. Puppies begin to walk unsteadily on the 18th day; some as
early as 12 days. From 21 to 49 days, playing and play fighting begins.
At approximately three weeks of age, puppies begin to go toward sights, sounds, or smells, and their
tendency to “whine” decreases. All their sense organs are now functional. The puppy is no longer dependent on reflex
responses to hunger, cold, and touch. It can see, hear, smell, taste, and feel. They can eliminate independently and
will normally leave their nesting and play area to eliminate. Their memory develops. By three weeks of age, their
brains start to take on adult characteristics. By seven weeks, they have "adult" brains and "mature" brain waves are
first recorded.
At this three week stage, great changes take place mentally and physically to puppies. They find sudden and
unexpected stimulation emotionally startling. Any additional noise, confusion, or rough handling can cause puppies to
become "fear imprinted." Puppies should not be subjected to excessive stimulation during this period, as they are
having to cope with several newly developed senses at once. What a puppy learns during its third week becomes
fixed and will influence its attitudes toward man, other animals, and its environment, throughout its life.
A critical socialization period begins at three weeks, and lasts to four months of age. A puppy's basic
character is set during this time. Puppies need to interact with humans and other animals in a variety of places
and situations and need individual attention during this period.
Puppies should not be weaned or adopted before seven weeks of age. Weaning before the seventh week
may cause noisy or nervous behavior for life. Puppies need their litter mates until seven weeks to learn to interact well
with other dogs. Taken before seven weeks, puppies miss critical socialization periods, and may show less interest in
normal dog activities for life.
Puppies adopted after seven weeks may pick fights with other dogs as adults. However, neither adopting a
puppy before seven weeks or after eight weeks will have such a drastic or negative effect that you should never
consider adopting a puppy outside of seven weeks. There are simply too many other factors to be considered when
choosing a puppy for this to be the deciding factor.
At seven weeks, puppies' brains are fully developed. This is the best time to adopt a puppy. It has had an
opportunity to interact adequately with both its mother and litter mates and time to learn the socialization skills critical
to its future interaction with humans and other animals. If weaning and transfer occur simultaneously, the best time to
adopt is at eight weeks.
Research shows aggression develops in puppies that do not stay with their mother long enough and also in
puppies that remain too long. Puppies taken at the end of the fourth week and given a lot of human attention may
become so socialized to humans they do not care for other dogs. Some identify with humans so strongly that they
express sexual desires toward humans rather than dogs, such dogs can be difficult or impossible to breed.
Positive training and gentle discipline can start at eight weeks. With proper training, puppies can be expected
to obey every command they have been taught. While housebreaking can begin at 8 weeks, do not expect immediate
success. Generally speaking, up to 8 months, a puppy can be expected to “hold” eliminations for one hour per month
of age. In other words, a three month old puppy should only be expected to wait three hours MAXIMUM time between
eliminations.
From 8 to 12 weeks also marks the beginning of another fear imprinting period.
From 12 to 16 weeks, puppies cut teeth and declare their independence. The puppies decide who the “pack
leader” is going to be. It is critical to establish yourself as leader during this period. Nothing helps a puppy learn
appropriate dog behavior towards humans more than simply taking it away from its litter mates and having a pleasant
session of one on one play, training, or work daily.
Although these important critical learning periods occur, one should never interpret this to mean that a dog
cannot be trained after these periods. Dogs can be trained throughout their lives and, if the training is done properly,
dogs enjoy the process. Dogs that have no defined purpose are often bored and boredom can lead to behavior
problems. Training is an important way for your dog to express its energy, intelligence, and instincts.
© Copyright 2001 Responsible Animal Owners of Tennessee, Inc. - Permission granted to copy and distribute in its entirety as is.
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Permalink Reply by Corgibyassociation on
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I've had her for about 8 days now. The breeder told me that the Dam quit feeding her pups at 3 weeks. She was also very aggressive with her pups, which I saw when I met them. The pups were allowed to roam free and play with the other corgis(grandparents) and the other dogs that the breeder had. By the time I met with the breeder, she sold all but one of the litter.
I'm working with Freya to sit now. Haven't tried it out yet, just praising how good of a sit she is doing and placing my hand on her butt. Hopefully, she will get the idea.
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Permalink Reply by Cindi on
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Hi again...
Our corgis are mostly rescues and came to us with no training and quite a few behavioral problems. I can tell you, as a trainer and as one with experience with corgis, they take to training like ducks to water. It doesn't ruin their personalities. If anything, training allows their personalities to shine! Don't get me wrong. Our little Clan is spoiled...but they are expected to mind and they do. They have learned the difference between being spoiled and what is required of them. We can play hard and in one simple word "enough" play hard ends and obedience begins. It takes work, time, and loving dedication. Corgis are smart little buggars. It sounds like Freya is one of those smarties. Love her and find a positive trainer who can bring out the best in her. Debbie's suggestion of NILF is a great one. Nothing in Life is Free for a dog. They work for food. They work for attention. They work for everything. We use it with our Clan. They want something, they earn it.
Hang in there. Stay positive. Stay positive with training and a trainer. You'll have so much fun with Freya!
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Is the AKC obedience training considered positive? Yeah, I've been working with her. My main concern is our Weimaraner at the moment. He probably needs more training than Freya does. I can't decide if he's stubborn or what...bah.
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I don't buy into the "stubborn dog" thing. Most of the dogs I train that folks label "stubborn" are actually easily trained. The issue is usually with the owner. The owner is inconsistent with training or commands in some way. Or they are projecting their energy of "stubborn" on the dog and the dog is responding to that energy. When I approach training, I approach it as every dog can learn. It just takes a willing owner. And I'm sure, by the comments you make here, you are a more than willing owner!
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Interesting, I didn't know that. So would the AKC style training be a good thing? Or is it one of those cases where anything is better than nothing?
Oh and I got Freya to sit on command consistently. Not sure how to work the lay down command but I"m sure I'll think of something.
I stopped the dominance training and she trusts me enough to give her tummy raspberries now, which I have to admit is very fun and well--I'll miss the puppy tummy.
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She's a good girl but man sometimes she goes in these spells where she tries to attack our feet and pants. When she gets like that I put her in her kennel til she calms down. Well, it really isn't her kennel, its a 45 gallon tub that I bought on a temporary basis.
So is that a corgi thing or is it cause she was taken too young? Or the Weim got her riled up?
Oh, at almost 8 weeks she figured out how to come inside using the doggie door! She's a genius. Not sure if she's doing her business all the time or not, but hey got part of the doggie door down.
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I hope she calms down on the feet thing. I tell her no and touch her neck, pushing her away from it. Yeah it probably is genetic temperament as I saw her sisters get "feisty" just from being held too long.
I have to say, Freya is almost like a cat than a dog. Though, she took to water waaaay better than I ever thought she could. She immediately went to doggy paddling (I supported her mid section and I was in the tub already.)
I figured I would get her used to the water. She hates having her nails clipped though, she screams bloody murder. But it isn't a matter of having her feet touched as I play with them a lot, it's the actual act of getting them clipped. -
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I'm updating in the thread that started it all! Well, Freya is on a partial Nothing is Free training. She's some how learned that sitting means she gets food or treats, so she's sitting all the time to get something--mostly, I praise her. So, making her sit for food isn't that hard and she always is consistent. Now, teaching the weim this is another story all together.
She's been good about biting. If she does bite or mouth me, it is gentle and she will stop. Now, it is a matter of getting her to stop trying to tug on my pants when I'm putting them on. I will say that the tugging desire has toned down as she used to tug whenever I was walking too.
She's learned to use the doggie door to go potty. But she still has accidents in the house. She will pee in the house, mostly, though she has pooed in the house at least three times--one was diarrhea, one was soft poo and the other normal. Most of the accidents have been on the linoleum except for the accidents by the front door.
She's learning at least.
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Permalink Reply by John Wolff on
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I just got a booklet you might find useful:
Really Reliable Recall, Leslie Nelson
http://www.tailsuwin.com/ purchased thru dogwise.com; over $11 with shipping & tax, seems like a lot but way less than the $30+ video.
Basic idea: teach a unique, seldom-used, highly-reinforced emergency recall command. Not your ordinary "Come!" This is for when your dog is chasing a squirrell into a busy street or making a beeline for a porcupine.
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Cool, thank you for the tip!
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