some info about collars
I have noticed many try to decide which collar would be the best for their dog. There are many options out there from a plain buckle collar to an electronic collar. It can be most confusing so I thought I would share some collar information with you.
It is good for your puppy to learn to wear a collar immediately. This is the first step totolerating to walking on lead. This is also a way for your dog to be easily identified if he can wear an identification tag. Do remember that the collar should be properly sized for safety. If you leave a collar on your dog at all times may I suggest a "breakaway" collar. Some can and do manages to catch themselves. If you are gone for long hours at a time or unable to safely supervise them this is a very good option.
Buckle collars made of made of nylon or leather are nice collars to begin walking your pup with. This offers just enough protection so your pup cant get away if properly fitted.
There are many different training collars available. Remember these collars are only as safe as the hands that are handling them. They should NEVER EVER be left on a dog unless he is walking on lead. Many can be quite dangerous on an unattended dog.
Chain collars - this has a slip effect so the collar can tighten and not slip over the dogs head. This is also used by many obedience trainers as a means for making "pop" corrections to a dog. These should not be used on young pups.
Martingale or Lupine collars - These colllars also have a slip effect but will not tighten beyond a specific point. These are great collars for a more gentle correction approach. These are also great for overweight corgis that can often slip a buckle collar.
Prong collars - I would rarely see the need to use this on corgis. This collar does put pressure at the points around the neck. In my obedience classes I generally recommend them for the larger "bullish" type dogs that were difficult to get their attention. Never would I consider them for a fearful or aggressive type dog. These should never be yanked on, used with a flexi lead or without proper instruction to use them. I have seen many dogs loose at a park wearing one of these or a chain collar. Recipe for disaster!
Gentle Leaders - I have found these useful for some dogs that are heavily distracted. Once again I would not use this on a young pup as they do need time to adjust to walking on lead and learning about the enviornment around them. These can be a great tool in the right hands as like with the prong collar they offer a self correction when a dog is pulling.
I would rarely see a use for an electronic collar unless someone was doing distance work in advanced training. Electronic collars can do far more harm then good unless being used by a kind and experienced trainer.
Harnesses - generally not a favorite of mine. I find that many dogs that use them are encouraged to pull more. One only need to look at how sled dogs are outfitted to pull. If you personally like them and your dog is a good walker already on lead they are fine.
Proper sized collars are also most important. When measuring for a chain collar measure around the largest part of the head and add two inches. When measuring for a regular buckle collar or martingale collar measure the neck and purchase a collar in the size range. Remember pups grow quickly so check the fit frequently. For prong collars and gentle leaders it is best to have an experienced person help you. Both are dangerous and pretty much useless for correction unless fitted properly. For harnesses they must be tried on. There are so many different designs available that trying on is the best way.
Hope you find this helpful in making good choices while purchasing collars.
It is good for your puppy to learn to wear a collar immediately. This is the first step totolerating to walking on lead. This is also a way for your dog to be easily identified if he can wear an identification tag. Do remember that the collar should be properly sized for safety. If you leave a collar on your dog at all times may I suggest a "breakaway" collar. Some can and do manages to catch themselves. If you are gone for long hours at a time or unable to safely supervise them this is a very good option.
Buckle collars made of made of nylon or leather are nice collars to begin walking your pup with. This offers just enough protection so your pup cant get away if properly fitted.
There are many different training collars available. Remember these collars are only as safe as the hands that are handling them. They should NEVER EVER be left on a dog unless he is walking on lead. Many can be quite dangerous on an unattended dog.
Chain collars - this has a slip effect so the collar can tighten and not slip over the dogs head. This is also used by many obedience trainers as a means for making "pop" corrections to a dog. These should not be used on young pups.
Martingale or Lupine collars - These colllars also have a slip effect but will not tighten beyond a specific point. These are great collars for a more gentle correction approach. These are also great for overweight corgis that can often slip a buckle collar.
Prong collars - I would rarely see the need to use this on corgis. This collar does put pressure at the points around the neck. In my obedience classes I generally recommend them for the larger "bullish" type dogs that were difficult to get their attention. Never would I consider them for a fearful or aggressive type dog. These should never be yanked on, used with a flexi lead or without proper instruction to use them. I have seen many dogs loose at a park wearing one of these or a chain collar. Recipe for disaster!
Gentle Leaders - I have found these useful for some dogs that are heavily distracted. Once again I would not use this on a young pup as they do need time to adjust to walking on lead and learning about the enviornment around them. These can be a great tool in the right hands as like with the prong collar they offer a self correction when a dog is pulling.
I would rarely see a use for an electronic collar unless someone was doing distance work in advanced training. Electronic collars can do far more harm then good unless being used by a kind and experienced trainer.
Harnesses - generally not a favorite of mine. I find that many dogs that use them are encouraged to pull more. One only need to look at how sled dogs are outfitted to pull. If you personally like them and your dog is a good walker already on lead they are fine.
Proper sized collars are also most important. When measuring for a chain collar measure around the largest part of the head and add two inches. When measuring for a regular buckle collar or martingale collar measure the neck and purchase a collar in the size range. Remember pups grow quickly so check the fit frequently. For prong collars and gentle leaders it is best to have an experienced person help you. Both are dangerous and pretty much useless for correction unless fitted properly. For harnesses they must be tried on. There are so many different designs available that trying on is the best way.
Hope you find this helpful in making good choices while purchasing collars.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Beth on
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I want to know more about break away collars too. We lost a dog who was wearing a plastic collar once, so I don't trust them. She was in the care of a friend while we were on vacation and broke her collar and got away. We never got her back and can only hope that she found a good home. Since her collar broke, there was no phone number for us to be called. Our Emma has a traditional buckle collar with a metal buckle, a mesh collar that stays on all the time. She's just a baby (8 weeks), and she doesn't pull on her leash yet but follows us along when she's on it. I'm interested in learning about new collars!
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Permalink Reply by John Wolff on
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I just shortened the blue loop because the tags were dangling low enough to get hit by her forepaws -- that's why they were clinking -- after all these years!
Just goes to show, it helps to be observant, and think about how much weight and cumbersome hardware we're asking these small dogs to lug around.
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IMPORTANT UPDATE Sept. 2010:
See the black double chest harness in the top photo? I tested it before a serious log crossing over a dangerous river. It will NOT hold a vertically suspended corgi! I had it very tight around Al, carefully lifted him off the ground, and he neatly slipped right out of it! This type clips in at the back; perhaps it would be more secure if it was tied in at the collarbone in front.
It might hold if the dog fell into the water, but this log was perhaps 7 ft. above the river, and I wanted to see if it would hold him dangling on a short rope, like a rock climber's seat harness. It will NOT. The dog can fall right out of it.
Be careful; a dog might get hurt simply testing it like this. I took that risk.
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Permalink Reply by Geri & Sidney on
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Ok, so Al slipped out on the test and NOT while on the log crossing, right? Good thing you tested it. Is Al all right?
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Permalink Reply by Lauren + Winston on
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nice post... i saw someone post this link (http://cozycritter.com/) a few days ago and it has a billion and a half different collars. it has a safety one that breaks away but it has two d-rings so you can hook them together and take your dog on a walk without the fear of having the collar break away. i might get one.
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Thanks! That looks exactly like what I need. I didn't even know they made a collar like that, so I really appreciate this. In fact, I appreciate this whole site!
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Permalink Reply by Owen's Mom on
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Thanks for the info Sam! That is very helpful.
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Permalink Reply by Corgibyassociation on
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How does the head collar work? I saw it here http://cozycritter.com/headcollar.htm
is this a good collar to go walking with?
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Permalink Reply by Sam on
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This seems to be a different version of the gentle leader. The gentle leader works somewhat like a halter for a horse. The collar portion goes right behind the ears on the neck. A noose comes up over the nose near the eye and has a ring at the bottom. The premise behind it is that if one has control of a dogs head they have control of their body. It does take some time for a dog to be comfortable with this collar and lots of practice is needed. These are great collars for dogs that are highly distracted. One must only use a short lead and never pull. If a dog goes to the end his head will turn around to you. Many puppy raisers for training service dogs use these. Once again they must be properly fitted and never used harshly..
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Interesting, I had no idea there were so many kinds of collars and harnesses for dogs until I got one of my own. Thank you for your explanation. If the harness doesn't work I may try it.
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Permalink Reply by Christine Glossman on
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I'd like to give you all the contact for the Matingale Collars on ebay USA, they are hand made, extremely good looking and priced well.
Regal Hound Designs Deals For Dogs
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Permalink Reply by Amanda on
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Dax has a problem with pulling while on leash, and no matter how much I work with him I just can't break him of it (ooh grass! That's much more interesting than listening to you!). I was thinking of trying the easy walk harness (I think that's what it's called?) The one that clasps in the front, but not the one that goes over his face, I wouldn't be able to get him out of the house with one of those things on, he'd be too busy pawing at his face trying to get it off. I'm sure it would be nice to have him walk right by my side, but really all I want is for him to not pull me. Hopefully this will do the trick.
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