Here's a show-type Pem.
The first thing you should do - and this is not a corgi-specific evaluation; it's something we're taught to do in any breed - is to draw a line from the elbow through the shoulder, and another line across the topline.
In a good, sound dog, the entire head and most if not all of the neck should be both above and in front of the lines you draw.
The next thing you do is draw a line up through the middle of the front paw and toward the sky. This is the line of weight bearing on the heaviest part of the body. That line should look like it is through the front part of the body, NOT through the neck.
The next step is to make sure the dog can take good deep breaths and get lots of oxygen. The rib on a corgi should end more than half-way down the body.
Finally, you want a dog who is "balanced" - the angle formed by the shoulder joining the upper arm should be roughly like the angle formed by the femur joining the knee (in dogs we call it the stifle). On this lovely bitch you can see that the angles are very similar (it's normal for the rear angle to be turned a little bit; they're not supposed to be identical in inclination, but in the openness of the triangle).
Let's look at one of the early corgis, Ch. Rozavel Red Dragon.
Divide him in fourths first.
Do you see how much shorter his neck is, how much more upright the whole shoulder and front assembly is? His head is barely out of that quadrant and most of his neck is under it.
The weight-bearing line:
His front leg supports his neck, not the big mass of weight that is formed by the front half of his body. You should be able to see now why it is that his topline sags in the middle - if his shoulder and arm were set further back, the topline would be straight.
His rib is just slightly past the middle of his body; not as good as the modern corgi.
And balance of angles:
He's not badly balanced, but there are two things that worry me - the angle in the rear is appreciably more open than 90 degrees, which means that the "hinge" of his leg was already open. He's not going to be able to get much more drive from the powerhouse of the rear than he's got at a standstill; he'll have to move from the hip instead of from the knee. Second, see how very much shorter the upper arm is than the shoulder? The upper arm should be as close to the same length as the shoulder as it possibly can be.
If someone is trying to sell you a "working" corgi, ignore the leg length. Ask for an eye-level stacked photo - you CAN get any dog to stack; put them on a stone wall or a countertop and they'll stand still - and draw these same lines on them. If the dog is sound, the lines won't lie. You should see a good straight topline that's created by a well-angled front that supports the body, not the neck. You should see lots of "hinge" created by a front and rear that are at 90-degree angles or very close to them. You should see a long arm, not a short one. You should see a good long rib. You should see a head and neck that are well up off the body. A dog built like that will be able to move easily and efficiently, and won't break down with activity. Leg length, in the end, means very little.
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corgwyn at work today:-)