Kirby is starting to get a little rowdy and jumping on us and litterally biting us in the butt. I've tried the knee bump but that just gets him more aggresive. I've tried cross my arms and turning my back but he'll just jump up and nip at me. We put him in timeout on top of the washing machine and it works for a while but I'm afraid that the point doesn't get across to him.

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Have you tried giving him a firm no, cross your arms, turn your back, silent treatment until he stops, then turn around and praise him once he's calm?

I can't imagine him jumping at you for more than a few seconds if you are just there standing still like a statue. If that's the case, then you need to tire him out first and then you can teach him what the proper behavior is supposed to be.
What are you doing while he's doing this? If you make ANY reaction, he'll keep going. You turn your back and become a tree. No yelling, no "owww!," no laughing, no asking somebody to grab him. It's "You pull this kind of crap and all the fun stops."

Nipping - if that's really what he's doing, rather than trying to get a piece of clothing to tug - is VERY impolite, and he knows it. You can come down pretty hard on that. I don't turn my back for that; nipping gets "OUCH! What do you THINK YOU ARE DOING?" in a very growly mad voice, and I advance a step (or sometimes just turn my weight) toward the dog. I want to see them put their ears back and back away a couple steps, which is dog for "Oops, screwed up, sorry."

Honestly, most of it is what Cesar Millan famously calls "energy." It's being the type of person that dogs don't nip. You know that person, the one who can walk through a room of chaos and no dog touches them? That's not accidental; every dog there is approaching and then throwing their bodies in the opposite direction to avoid rude touching as soon as they realize who this person is. Whoever you know who does that, try to become that person and you'll be amazed how little "training" you have to do.
For a high energy corgi you really have to be dramatic to get their attention. A lot of what corgis were bred to do is enhanced by them being very pushy little dogs. Cesar talks about matching energy which is what I think Joanna and Kerry are recommending. My corgi Sparty was like that and very good obedience classes saved me from having a very unmanageable dog. I always will believe a good class will be the best money you will ever spend. However, at minimum you need to help him understand that nipping (biting) you is never Ok. Make sure your correction is dramatic (think a stage type screech or yelp). Continuing at my house warrants a time out tied to the banister but confined in a room for a few minutes until he settles down will do. Putting him on the washing machine sounds a little too fun to me and don't resort to hitting , it will just make him more excited. Also, long walks really do help expend his energy in a positive way. Good luck with your smart little guy.
How old is Kirby? For a puppy with a short attention span, it can be easier.

What I did with Jack is run and actually encourage him to chase me, which is the most exciting thing in the world for a puppy. As soon as he nipped, even a little, I became a tree. Complete silence, no movement, and then when he wandered off I would clap my hands, call him, and start to run again. The nice thing with this method is you teach a puppy that nipping = game over. The dog isn't just respecting you, he's learning an important lesson that will also keep him from nipping passing joggers later in life.

For an older dog, with a longer attention span, ignoring for nipping may not work and then you need to do the low growly "I said NO" sort of thing. The secret is, as Joanna and Kerry said, to make your voice low and threatening and you really need to mean it. Because your dog is reading your body language and not your words, and you only convey in body language what you really feel, if you do not mean it your dog will not listen.

What you don't want to feel is angry. What you do want to feel is something more like deeply affronted, as in "How dare you even THINK of doing that to me, you little so-and-so." That sort of attitude makes sense to your dog.
Kirby is 8 months

The looking up, turning around, and standing stiff method does not work. He'll jump and nip us on the butt and its very hard to ignore.

We took him to obedience class and the trainer recommended that we praise him and give him treats when he jumps off and say "good off." I think that it just encourages him to jump on and off so he keeps getting treats. I want him to permanently think that jumping on people is bad.

So far I been trying the Cesar method of trapping him in a corner and making him submit until he's calm. It's been working so far its just time consuming sometimes.

I just want to know what have you guys done to teach your dog not to jump on people?
I never had much trouble with jumping because we encounter so many folks while they are leashed. If the dog jumps they get a leash correction and a no. No attention until all 4 feet are on the ground. I like the idea of teaching "down" at an early age too. That would work although that was the one thing I had trouble getting through Sparty's head. He was great at every trick and command except quiet and down. He now has a very reliable down but quiet is relative! LOL Meeting people while your dog is leashed is probably the easiest way to stop the jumping. The "good off" would be tricky because most of us novices don't have real good timing. I used the leash a lot to correct behaviors. It should not be rough just attention getting. Don't be afraid to tell people you are working on training. Also teach him to shake for treats. It will curtail the jumping too. Beth mentions a lot about replacing a bad behavior with a good one and sit and shake is a good example.
Yes, you don't want to give treats for not biting you (and I'm a big believer in positive reinforcement in the form of food for shaping new behaviors). Comparisons to children are imperfect, but think of it this way: with your average young child, you might give some rewards to shape new behaviors like saying "please" and "thank you" or helping wiht chores, but would you reward a child for NOT running up and hitting you in the head? Of course not.

Respecting physical space is a concept that makes sense to dogs, as dogs do protect their own from other dogs. I don't reward things like jumping off the couch, moving out of my way, or not jumping on me.

What you CAN reward, like Bev says, is if you catch him before he jumps and you ask for a "sit" or "down" and he complies. Learn to keep an eye on him and intervene before the fact if you want to replace a good behavior for a bad one.

My dogs are conditioned so that if I just stop what I'm doing and maintain a steady gaze focused on them, they give me an auto-sit and perk up to attention (of course with a working dog you wouldn't want an auto-sit, just the attention). You can work towards this goal and reward it with treats if it suits your training style.

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