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Permalink Reply by Beth on February 15, 2013 at 3:06pm

I can understand how upset you are. Please understand that resource guarding is VERY COMMON in dogs and does not mean he'll be aggressive in other situations. However, since he actually has bitten (as opposed to growling) at this age, I agree with your decision to bring the trainer into the house to observe how he behaves.

One thing you can do is similar to the trade game, but with the bowl. Basically what you do is while he is eating from his bowl, you say his name then toss some cheese or hot dogs his way. When he realized you are bringing something better than what he has, he SHOULD relax. Over time you move closer to his bowl and actually drop the cheese into it. Then you ask him to sit while he's eating and drop the cheese in. Then you ask him to sit and hand feed him the cheese and let him go back to eating.

And then you are meant to ask him to sit, pick the bowl up, put the cheese in and put it back down right away.

Again, since he's bitten already I would suggest bringing the trainer in before trying this method. Over all, though, it's usually very successful with food guarding.

Also, if anyone recommends you correct him, scold him, or take away food he already has when he does this, please don't listen because that will prove to him that he has reason to be afraid and that you really are there to steal his food.

Good luck and please keep us posted.

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Permalink Reply by Tracy Marie on February 15, 2013 at 10:36pm

Thank you Beth. I really appreciate your advice and it really made me feel quite a bit better about things and the exercises. I've gotten some recommendations for a trainer/behaviorists, I feel like this is our best option. Thank you again. :)

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Permalink Reply by Mai on February 15, 2013 at 5:13pm

I would actually recommend getting a dog behaviorist instead of another dog trainer.  A dog behaviorist will evaluate the behavior and then implement techniques to modify the behavior whereas a dog trainer, you go to a dog trainer when you want to teach your dog commands like 'Drop it', 'Stay', 'Down', etc. etc.  If you have a behavior problem seek a dog behaviorist, if you have training problems seek a dog trainer.  It might get expensive though getting a dog behaviorist.   

I also commend you for being quite honest in that you might not be able to deal with the situation.  I would totally be in your ballpark if I had a dominant dog like yours.  It's just not in my nature or personality to be assertive or an in charge type of person.  I would just let the dog win to keep peace, which is not a healthy relationship and could get quite dangerous.  That's why, understanding myself and my personality type, the first words out of my mouth to my breeder was 'This is the kind of personality I have.  I'm seeking a dog that matches my personality or is even more laid back than my personality type.' 

If you do decide to rehome I hope you carefully consider a home where they know how to deal with this kind of situation or is willing and able to work with this kind of behavior problem to fix it.  In this way, the dog won't be bounced from home to home and in the worst case scenario, eventually euthanized.

I read an article a while ago that may help you determine if you need a dog behaviorist or dog trainer.  I copied and pasted it for you.

 

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A DOG TRAINER AND BEHAVIORIST by Rhea Stevens

 I was asked to write an article describing the differences between a dog trainer and a behaviorist. When I accepted, I thought this would be a rather straight forward definition, but the more I think the more the two overlap. Overlap or not, though, there is a difference, and the difference is important.

 

Perhaps the first myth to dispel is that behaviorists are "better" than dog trainers. Since the two are different, despite an overlap, "better" is not even an appropriate comparison. Which is better, your physical therapist or your counselor?

Behaviorists are different than dog trainers perhaps most strikingly in their approach. Behaviorists look backwards to determine the etiology of the behavior in order to determine which method of modification is best, or to decide, in some cases, that the behavior cannot be sufficiently modified to satisfy the owners and be safe. Behaviorists certainly use classical dog training as an essential technique, but they go through extensive diagnostics first. Dog trainers look forward and set their goal on a particular behavior and then implement standard training techniques. The behaviorist wants to understand the behavior itself; the dog trainer wants to get the dog to do something.

Dog trainers usually have a set program that their clients enroll in. There is puppy kindergarten, C.G.C. training, handling classes, obedience and sometimes scent or guard dog work. The average trainer has a pre-set program, and he works at fitting the dog into the classes as they exist. A behaviorist is much more likely to have a single dog (or multiple dogs in a multiple dog family) and a problem or goal from which he or she creates an individual plan of behavior modification.

By now it must have occurred to you that there is considerable overlap. The good dog trainer notices the dog that is not thriving in his class and intervenes. The more he understands dog behavior the better his adaptation will be. I, like many, learned dog behavior in a college setting. This is certainly not the only way to learn it. Many "dog people" are sensitive and effective behaviorists without even realizing what they are doing. The handler that consistently has his client’s dogs "free bait" with animation while leaving all four feet on the ground almost certainly used behavioral modification to train his client’s dogs.

Let me try to explain the difference between a behaviorist and a trainer by giving some examples. I had a fellow breeder (from a livestock guarding breed) call me to say that one of her customers was having trouble training one of her puppies. I interviewed the husband and wife separately. At under 6 months of age the dog was exhibiting classic dominance behavior. "Fido" was sleeping on their bed, growling over his food bowl, and refusing commands by growling. The more we discussed it, it was revealed that the dog had bitten more than once. The dog’s behaviors were not in themselves the problem, it was the owner’s behavior combined with the puppy’s. The owners were backing away at times when the dog growled, and then choosing battles sporadically, further confusing the dog. Since the dog was able to get away with inappropriate behaviors at times, and was successful when he bit, the dog was certainly alpha in that family. There was a fundamental dilemma in the family: they wanted a "tough" dog, but were unable to control a "tough" dog. The puppy was re-placed with a family that was very consistent in its interaction and discipline with the dog, and in no time flat the dog was a happy and well trained member of the family. (For the record the original family got an adult that was already trained, and was very sweet tempered and cooperative and they are as happy as can be).

This family had enrolled in two obedience classes and had received no help. They went through the obedience class, and were able to teach the dog a number of useful commands. The dog would walk on a lead, sit, sit-stay, down and down-stay (a good portion of the time). Since life is not limited to those commands though, there were still problems.

In the above example obedience training was far from irrelevant — it was very important. But to be more helpful, obedience training had to be constructed around the unique situation that had been created by a dominant puppy and an ambivalent family. Ultimately the goal of all dog people is to create working relationships between dogs and their families. Dog trainers usually gear their instructions to dogdom as a whole, whereas a behaviorist constructs individualized programs based on a theoretical framework of dog behavior.

Some make the argument that individualized programs are of course better. Realistically, most dogs do not have problems that are not solvable by ordinary dog training classes. Hiring a behaviorist often means paying extra to teach your dog basic obedience. And no behaviorist or dog trainer can change an un-motivated dog owner. Dog trainer and behaviorist will agree that most "dog" problems are really "owner" problems. Many owners are either inconsistent, allow the dog to be alpha, or inadvertently reinforce the wrong behavior.

I will always remember my mentor telling me of a case he had been called to. The dog was "un-trainable" with respect to house training. The dog did "bizarre" things, and so my mentor went to see the dog first hand. After a period of time the dog went to the living room, defecated, took a bite of the feces and jumped out the window into the back yard. My friend instantly knew what had happened — he said to the family "when the dog was a pup and had an accident, you rubbed his nose in it and tossed him out the window (which was only a few inches above ground level), didn’t you?" The dog had actually been trained very well.

Perhaps that is the best illustration of the differences between a dog trainer and a behaviorist. Those people were dog trainers, but they failed to train the dog as they intended to. Obviously most dog trainers are excellent at accomplishing their stated goal. A behaviorist does not want just to get the goal behavior, but to educate the family to prevent unwanted behaviors in the future. The behaviorist also wants to know exactly how the behavior in question came to be. And perhaps a behaviorist’s forte is to intervene in problem situations. Whether it is an aggression problem, inappropriate chewing, the "ring wise" show dog, or the like, the behaviorist’s job is to answer the difficult question "why" and then to help the family fix the problem.

So the question becomes, knowing the difference between the two, when to use one versus the other. Every dog should have "manners" if not obedience training. A dog is not much of a family pet if it cannot be walked on a leash, jumps on every guest, and runs off if given the opportunity. Most owners should begin training with a good dog trainer. Try to talk with actual clients to find out the qualifications of the trainer (and see how well their dog behaves), or at least have the option to get your money back if you are not satisfied with the first class or two. If the owner is motivated, the average dog will do fine being instructed by an obedience trainer. The owner needs to look for a behaviorist if they are unable to be successful with a dog trainer, or if an unusual problem arises. Most obedience schools also offer training for dogs in house soiling cases and teach handling classes for show dogs. Considering that a basic obedience class runs around $100 for the entire class (depending on class and region of the country), and a behaviorist may charge up to $100 per hour, it is often economical that an owner begin with a basic obedience class.

The average basic dog obedience class lasts between 6 and 12 weeks. The standard course teaches the dog to come when called, heel, sit, down, stand, and stay (obviously there is variation from class to class). Since the class is usually a multiple dog environment, the dog also learns how to behave around other dogs. At the end of the course, many classes have either mock obedience trial or A.K.C. sanctioned C.G.C tests. In a puppy kindergarten class, the instructions are geared towards the shortened attention span of puppies, and focus on socializing the puppy towards other people, strange environments and noises and other puppies. A handling class focuses on the special skills needed to make a dog comfortable and competent in the show ring, and to encourage the dog to exhibit a "winning attitude".

For the dog (or owner) that is unsuccessful with a basic obedience class, a behaviorist may make the difference between a pet staying in the home, and the dog being returned or sent to the pound. It is common knowledge that the number one reason for dogs being turned over to the pound or humane society is behavior problems.

Dog problems like chewing, digging, and of course aggression, may best be corrected by seeing a behaviorist. The behaviorist begins by interviewing the family, asking for a description of the problem (and sometimes what solution is sought), and then an examination of the problem dog. The dog may even be watched during the problem behavior, or tested to see what elicits the behavior and what doesn’t. General temperament evaluations are also made. The behaviorist then applies certain behavioral principles or models to the subject animal, which help to determine how the problem behavior evolved, and what interventions can be made to create the target behavior. Educating the owners is key to an effective behavior modification. Owners learn the basics of positive and negative reinforcement.

One lesson that most owners need to understand is the power of intermittent positive reinforcement. Most people do not appreciate that intermittent positive reinforcement is more powerful than consistent positive or consistent negative reinforcement. The end result of this is the reason why many dogs misbehave: the owners are inadvertently intermittently reinforcing an undesirable behavior.

Once the behaviorist has assessed the family and the dog enough to understand the etiology of the behavior (or the most likely etiology) the family is educated on the best method(s) to alter their dog’s behavior. Usually the dog and behaviorist demonstrate the mechanisms of behavior modification, including the timing. The dog may even spend extensive time with the behaviorist in especially difficult situations. Goals are set and future appointments made to measure the owner’s progress with the behavior modification. As the behavior begins to change it may be necessary to revise the approach. Behavioral modification is dynamic, and changes with the dog’s behavior.

One final comment about both dog trainers and behaviorists. It is too easy to claim to be either or both. Only recently has the Veterinary profession acknowledged "behaviorist" as a specialty and then only for veterinarians. Although in psychology there has been "ethologists" (someone who studies animal behavior) for many years now, again, there is no way to know if they studied cows’ or canids’ behavior, and frankly, if they are any good. Some of the best in both fields (dog trainers and behaviorists, which as I said overlap) are self educated. I have learned from some of the most famous minds internationally, and yet was just taught some excellent skills by someone that to my knowledge has never been "formally" educated as a behaviorist (she could certainly put many "professionals" to shame), nor does she claim to be a behaviorist. Anyone seeking assistance with a dog, whether their own or perhaps a puppy they sold, should decide what kind of help it needs (does it need to learn manners through a basic obedience class, or is there a problem that doesn’t seem suited to a quick fix), and should be very careful whom they employ to assist them. Credentials are useful, but most importantly the person should accomplish the stated goal without harming the animal and while educating the owners. If it doesn’t feel right, it almost certainly isn’t. And good trainers and behaviorists, like their clients, continue to learn, adapt, and improve.

© Rhea Stevens, 1997

August Dane Kennels

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Permalink Reply by Tracy Marie on February 15, 2013 at 10:37pm

Thank you for your help, I appreciate it! We are looking into getting a behaviorist to train us. :)

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Permalink Reply by Beth on February 16, 2013 at 12:31pm

Mai, your words near the top about telling the breeder what sort of person you are is so important.  When we got Jack, I explained very carefully that I'd been raised with well-trained hunting dogs, my father used to field-trial and worked with a top trainer, and I had been taught by him how to train dogs from before I could even remember.

My husband, on the other hand, is an inconsistent push-over.   So while I didn't mind a pushy dog, we could NOT have one who would resent the inconsistency and try to overpower us.  

From the litter we got our pup from, we were able to get a pretty pushy dog (which I actually prefer) who is also pretty easy going in many ways.  In a different litter, we might have ended up with a more classically submissive pup.

My parents' Chessie would be a nightmare in our house because of my husband's lax attitude towards dogs.  He indulges them.  :-)

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Permalink Reply by Beth on February 16, 2013 at 12:35pm

I just realized that "pushy" and "easy-going" seem to be conflicting terms, but basically Jack thinks that all people except for me are slightly moronic and therefore their idiocy needs to be tolerated in much the same way he must tolerate the antics of silly puppies.   

In the house, he sees me as more or less in charge, himself as my helpful second-in-command, and everyone else as his little flock that needs looking after.  

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Permalink Reply by Anna Morelli on February 15, 2013 at 5:22pm

I am sorry you are having such a hard time with this, but the first thing I would advise you to do is relax and take a deep breath.  Very young puppies are used to asserting themselves with their mouth and teeth,because that's how they interacted with their littermates.  When a pup has a prized possession, such a bone or any type of food item (rawhide, bully stick, cow hooves are also food items) he is bound to defend it, unless he is a particularly submissive puppy.  This is not the time or the way to do your training.  In dog training you are always trying to teach something in such a way that the puppy can be successful and then you build on that success.  Start teaching the pup the word "give" with a toy that is not so exciting, a rope toy works well and taking it gently, holding his collar if necessary.  You are teaching the word, as well as the desired behavior, don't make it a fight or an issue, then throw it again or reward with a small treat and let him have it.  Don't ask him to give it up except once in awhile.  Progress slowly to other objects.

For the feeding, I have never had a food aggressive dog mainly because I don't bug my dogs, so they don't worry that I will take their food away.  I teach puppies the sit command, so they have to sit before I put the food down, later I add "wait", so they have to sit and wait a few seconds before I say OK and they can go eat, and I then add "watch me" so they look at me, rather than the bowl while waiting for the OK to go eat.  Your trainer can help you establish these behaviors and you can put the pup on leash while he learns this, so he cannot ignore you.  The actual food bowl should not be made an issue.

I am not a fan of handfeeding, except for treats given as a reward for specific behaviors.  Pups are hungry creatures and should get the full amount of their meal without being bothered and they should be left to lick that bowl until they walk away from it.

I would also teach the pup to accept handling of the mouth, looking at his teeth and such, all in a gentle manner and briefly, having chosen a word to tell him that's what you will be doing ( I use the word "teeth" )  The experience has to be positive for the pup and not generate anxiety, so go slow, starting with just briefly lifting his lips a little bit, then praise.

Make sure both you and your fiance' are gentle in the interaction with the pup and avoid rough-housing and dominance games such as tug of war.  As for getting a trainer to come in and help you,  I would wait and proceed with general training classes, while seeing if you can de-escalate the issue on your own.

I completely agree with Beth's admonition "Also, if anyone recommends you correct him, scold him, or take away food he already has when he does this, please don't listen because that will prove to him that he has reason to be afraid and that you really are there to steal his food."  More monsters are made than are born!

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Permalink Reply by Tracy Marie on February 15, 2013 at 10:40pm

Thanks for the advice. It's so weird how much conflicting information out there, it makes it tough to judge what is right and will work. I think the best thing would be for a professional to personally assess our situation. My fiance did some research and things it might be possession aggression and not simple food aggression, but who knows without having somebody actually look at our situation.

We have been probing him and rewarding, he's perfectly fine with it... your suggestion of stop tug of war makes a bunch of sense. We need a confident pup who knows that we are the leaders, not him. 

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Permalink Reply by suzanne lester on February 15, 2013 at 7:12pm

the one piece of advise that I don't see here - never show fear - I'm not saying you have to be aggressive, just don't show Loki that you are afraid of her - a firm voice and no hesitation in your movement is a must - dogs can smell fear and if you approach with a bit a fear, she will nail you - if you reach and she snaps at you, a firm NO and a finger will hopefully show her who the alpha dog is - good luck 

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Permalink Reply by Tracy Marie on February 15, 2013 at 10:40pm

We will try! 

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Permalink Reply by Jane on February 15, 2013 at 7:44pm

You've already gotten really good advice, so I'll just add that I would also google Nothing in Life is Free training and implement that too. It basically just makes him work for everything he does, so he learns that you are the leader in the house, not him. Resource guarding is a very common issue - I think you'll be able to work through it with some training, but I would definitely recommend getting a professional's opinion. And if worse came to worse you could just feed him in his crate and not let him have high value treats.

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Permalink Reply by Bev Levy on February 15, 2013 at 8:43pm

Certainly look at NILIF it will help you see ways you might be contributing to the problem. Also, don't panic, your pup is still pretty young and this probably can be fixed. I really don't like the hand feeding idea, I think it involves the human in the feeding in the wrong way. Simple way to correct food aggression: Bring half his food in your hands and put it in his bowl, as soon as he starts to eat come with the other half, if he stiffens, growls or shows any sign of guarding walk away without giving the other half. Next meal, do the same thing. A trainer I went to that specializes in police dogs told me she never had a dog go more than 3 days on half rations before they figured out that hands by their dish is good! I had one food aggressive dog and it only took him one meal at half size and he never again got upset about someone by his bowl. Even my little grandson could be by him while he was eating.

When it comes to bones or bully sticks, I like the way Cesar Milan does it where he stands squarely in front of the dog and points for him to back off. Slowly move forward until the dog backs off. You have to be patient and wait him out, move and stop, move and stop until you are standing over the bone. If the dog turns his head or backs away then tossing a piece of treat is in order. I never just take something without giving the dog a little time to understand that I am claiming it.

Don't take this personally, remember your pup has been selectively bred to be willing to tell a bunch of 1 ton plus critters what to do, is it any wonder that some mistake us for an animal they need to boss around.

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