Tucker is about 12 weeks old. He did fine with having  collar on all the time but i read in a training book that harnesses are better for controling the dog, also when I had tried walking him with just his collar he would cry like he was in horrible pain. So I got a harness, he doesn't cry when he wears it or when I try to walk him on it, but he sulks and just lies down. Now when i pick up his harness to put it on him he runs away from me. I read that most puppies do this and to use treats to bribe him into followin me on his leash. He did better today but I was wondeing if anyone has any tips. He is my first puppy Ive raised and trained on my own and I just want to make sure I'm not rushing him too much or using an ineffective method

 

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Teddy is a horrible puller and when I first got him, I was told by both the pet store I go to and my vet that a harness was the safest and most effective way to curb that. So didn't work for me. I tried many different kinda of harnesses and walks were becoming a pain (literally, my arm and hand would just ache). It wasn't until we enrolled in a training class and was introduced to the prong collar that the problem lessened.

That being said, if the harness works for you, go for it. Puppies are going to be stubborn and not like anything that isn't their idea. You're just going have to be firm and consistent and break out the treats to get him to move. Praise, praise and praise when he walks like you want him too.
Not all harnesses are made the same. Premier Easy Walk Harness has a clip in the front so it prevents the dog from pulling. It is much safer to use than a prong collar.
Tried it and it didn't work for us. I think I have tried all the harnesses I could get my hands on. The prong collar is only on when he is on the leash and I take it off as soon as we get home or get to the dog park.
Yeah it fits fine. I prefer it to the Gentle Leader since most dogs HATE having a head harness on. One of my corgis tolerates the Gentle Leader so I will sometimes use it on her if we are going in an area jam packed with people. I will caution that you don't want to use this on a dog that is constantly running to the end of the leash and rubberbanding itself because it can cause a neck injury if the owner doesn't take the time to train the dog properly.

The only thing I sometimes do if the dog keeps tripping on the leash is to clip the leash through the front ring in the harness and also on the collar. It keeps the front harness part a little higher so their short legs don't get tripped up into it. I much prefer it for corgis that pull.

There is an alternative harness called the Sensation harness that works in the same manner.
http://www.softouchconcepts.com/
No prob! I've had lots of owners use them and they are overjoyed at the relief their arm gets from a pulling dog compared to a regular collar. Pulling isn't fun for anyone. :)
Our trainer always said that harnesses will make a dog pull more. With a harness, they can put the whole weight of their body into it and pull. Think about huskies that are trained to pull sleds - they put them in harnesses so they can use all the muscles in their upper body and really push with their legs. You can't do that with an ordinary collar because there is only so much weight that the dog's neck will support.

In terms of controlling the dog, there are some tools out there that are much more effective than a harness.
Since you have a puppy, I would work with him on a regular collar and lead (not a retractable leash) and teach him to heel. Our trainer had us put a little peanut butter on a wooden spoon and let the puppy lick it every few steps. That way, there attention is focused on you and they are not tugging. Another method is if the dog pulls, turn and walk the other way so that you are constantly leading. This is something to work on during training. You end up walking in a zig-zag pattern, but the dog needs to be the one to follow you, not pull ahead. If they pull, plant yourself firmly like a tree and don't just follow the dog. If you follow where they go when the dog pulls, you're just reinforcing the behavior.

You'll know you've trained well if, when Tucker is older, when you go on walks, the leash is a little loose. It shouldn't be tight. If there are still problems then, you can introduce some other tools, like a Gentle Leader (which is fitted around their muzzle and basically pulls their nose down if they tug) or an easy walk harness that attaches to the leash in front of the chest so the dog basically spins around if they try to pull.
I suggest reading through this webpage before deciding to use his techniques.

http://www.askdryin.com/dominance.php
Harnesses train dogs TO pull. That's why they're used on sled dogs and tracking dogs - the pressure of the harness encourages the dog to push into it and move forward. They're actually the very worst tools for controlling dogs, if by "controlling" you mean having the dog obey you and walk nicely. There are times when they're appropriate but I'd never use one on an obedient good puppy. Stick with the collar and thank your baby for being so polite.
If a person is more comfortable using a harness, I have seen a harness with the leash hook ring on the front. I wish I could remember which website I saw it on. I'm not sure that would eliminate the pulling.

I just took Riley for a short walk around the yard using his collar instead of his harness...the walk was more enjoyable, no pulling. He still wanted to lead, but I could control that easier.

Mine is a personal problem with putting the collar around his neck. I have had a bad experience with the collar and control in an emergency.
It is called the Premier Easy Walk harness and it works wonders in eliminating pulling along with lure reward training.
Check out the collar FAQ. I use harnesses only for belaying the dogs on dangerous stream crossings (because they can support a strong force; that's why it's comfortable to pulll against a harness). The harness we had wore sores on the collarbone; took me awhile to realize that. I modified Martingales by cutting off the chains. I like to make the collar as lightweight as possible; you're asking the dog to lug that stuff around a lot and it doesn't have to be strong enough to hold a car. I like the slip-on Martingales because they come on-and-off so easily and we never leave them on indoors; they can get caught on things and are hazardous in unsupervised circumstances.
The way to train a puppy not to pull is, allegedly, to reverse direction every time the puppy pulls. Pup learns that it's pointless to pull against you. It is HILARIOUS to watch someone training a puppy this way: back-and-forth, back-and-forth, half an hour to go 50 yards. giggle.

Gwynnie learned a subtle behavior: she learned that she can't get anywhere by tugging with brute force, but by gently but enthusiastically tugging, she can communicate where she wants to go. Some might call this bad behavior, but I sorta value her independence, and I like that she tries to communicate where she wants to go -- which is usually farther, or in a new direction -- that's a spirit I really identify with.

Suggestion: decide and WRITE DOWN the commands you intend to use and keep these rigidly consistent and simple among handlers. Like, "Let's Go", "Stop", "Wait", "Cross" (for street crosswalks). Humans use a wide range of synonyms ("OK" = "Let's Go"), but these make it harder for the canine.
One mistake we made was not making sure both of us were on the same page. I had my leash system (maybe 10' and variable), Lori had hers (9'); this was likely confusing to the pup. We had different walking styles and expectations; that's asking a lot of a puppy to figure out.

Get a notebook and keep a training log. This is as much for training yourself as the dog; it forces you to plan your work and work your plan.
John...I feel the same way about my guy Riley...I admire and respect his independence. The "respect" part is especially important to me. These little critters are very proud, putting something around their neck bothers me. Don't get me wrong, Riley has both a martingale and a harness. Personally I prefer the harness. This is just another example of personal comfort and choice (one size doesn't fit all). The pulling isn't an issue with me (guess I'm a passive mom). I'm still in control, I can have him walk beside me, this is something he will learn. I liken this to the rules of the road...do what works best for you to keep your best friend under control and out of harms way (when out of his domain). Right now Riley is wearing a harness in the yard simply because he wants to eat everything in sight! (This too shall pass.) We have trained Riley to wear a collar when he goes to the vet and he wears his collar (with tags) whenever we travel...sometimes he wears both! My life is such that I have the extra time to spend with Riley. This too doesn't work for everyone. As responsible moms and dads it is our job to keep our critters safe and out of harms way. We need to use the common sense that was given us or don't be a pet owner.

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