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Permalink Reply by Steph Bussema on December 10, 2013 at 9:39pm

Put them in their crates and then feed them.  If that isn't feasible, put them in separate rooms (with doors) to make sure they can't see each other or get to each other's food.  Don't let anyone out until everyone is finished.  Then pick up all food dishes.  Also, make sure that if one dog gets a treat, so does everyone else so there is no jealousy.  I have trained my dogs to sit when they get treats, and they both get the treat at the same time.

My female corgi was very food aggressive with other dogs, so when we got a second corgi, they were fed separately at all times at first.  Now they can eat right next to each other with no problems.  So there's hope!

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Permalink Reply by Erin on December 10, 2013 at 9:46pm

Kenny is in his own crate right now, so I may have to move on onto being in separate rooms. What happened was is that whenever I was getting both Brenna's and Kenny's food that was when Kenny made his move at her.

 

I give them both treats equally and make him sit whenever he gets his meal and treat.

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Permalink Reply by Natalie, Lance &Tucker on December 10, 2013 at 9:47pm

I definately agree with feeding the dogs seperately when dealing with food agression....

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Permalink Reply by Beth on December 10, 2013 at 10:09pm

Very common for Corgis to be food aggressive with other dogs. Crate them both before you get the dishes. Make sure there is a visual barrier between them. Open one door at a time to feed so if someone gets out, the other is still safe.

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Permalink Reply by Erin on December 10, 2013 at 10:11pm

Thank you Beth! He barks for food too. Do your corgis do that as well?

I will also be working with him on dealing with me with touching his food. He didn't mind whenever I did but I need to make sure now. I don't want him hurting me or Brenna.

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Permalink Reply by Beth on December 10, 2013 at 10:53pm

Maddie doesn't bark, but Jack does.   What I do is if he barks, I cross my arms over my chest and look the other way.  The second he's quiet I move toward the food again.  If he's really bad I turn and walk a few steps in the other direction.  If I'm already holding the bowl, I put it down where he can't reach it and look away.  He learns quick but needs reminding periodically.  I do personally allow an excited "Aroooo!!" about food, but not demanding forceful barking.  

Do be mindful that you can create food aggression by making the dog think you are taking his food.  The best method is to approach the dog with something much better (cheese, hot dogs, pieces of real meat) and toss it on the floor near the dish.  Once you are sure he's ok with that, work up to dropping it in the dish and once he is very good at obedience you can say his name and have him look at you and sit while you pick up the dish and put in the better food and put it back down.  Never remove food the dog already has as "punishment" and if he shows aggression to you, back up to the point where he does not.  

Do this sometimes to keep him used to your approach, but 95% of the time the dog should be left to eat in peace.

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtual-pet-behaviorist/dog-behavior/...

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Permalink Reply by Bev Levy on December 11, 2013 at 8:12am

My Sparty struggled with his over strong food drive his entire life. Originally it was with us which I quickly stopped by giving him half his food (using my hands) and as soon as he started eating , bring the other half. If he growled or stiffened I put the rest of his meal away and tried again at the next meal. He learned after one half ration meal that humans by his food was good. Even as an old dog my grandkids could crawl around him while he was eating with no aggression. Later in life he began to be upset if the cats came in the kitchen while he was eating. I was able to correct him with a simple Ah-ah! Later when we added my son's doberman (Sparty did not like her) to our household I did have to leash Sparty at dinner for a few days so I could quickly correct him  with a no and a tug so he would stay in his place and not go after her food. Then I gradually moved to just standing while they ate at opposite ends of the room, later they were fine while eating.

I do think this is part of a situation where you are not being perceived as the leader. Take a look at the Nothing In Life Is Free method. It will help you recognize the simple changes you can make in your behavior that are reinforcing his belief that he is in control of meals.Ex. Always make him sit and wait to be released to eat. Eat a cracker or something before putting his bowl down. Things like that show him that you are at the top of the food chain.

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Permalink Reply by Anna Morelli on December 12, 2013 at 2:19pm

I would recommend teaching him the words sit, wait and watch me.  Start with the pup and you alone in a room.  Use his food bowl and a small treat, even a Cheeerio will do.  First teach sit, don't put your hands on him, let him sit on his own - if the bowl is held high, they will usually sit to look at it - then you praise and put the bowl down.  Repeat, no more than 3 times, but you can do this many times in a day.  Once you've done this for a few days, change the rules.  Add the word "wait".  This is trickier, you can put a leash on him, he MUST NOT get to the bowl until you've put it on the ground (about arms length from him)  removed your hand from the bowl and said "OK" or some other release word.  His butt comes off the floor, the bowl goes up just as quickly, his butt stays on the ground, the bowl goes down slowly.  Do this for a week or so, until the behavior is really solid.  Do not go faster and faster in doing the routine ,do it at normal speed, he is learning self control.  Appreciate that this is very hard for him.  Next step is you add "watch me" to the routine.  He will look at the food bowl, not you.  You want him to look at your face.   Repeat your request.  He will not know what you want but, at some point, in frustration, he'll look at you to see why you are not giving the release word.  IMMEDIATELY upon eye contact praise verbally and put the bowl down.   Repeat the sequence  as said for the steps above.  Once he has understood, teach him to look at you for 3 to 5 seconds ( one thousand and one, one thousand and two... count in your head ) before you give your release word and permission to eat the treat. He must learn to hold the eye contact.

Once this routine is solid, start doing it at his mealtime, in a quiet place, away from the other dog.  Keep that routine for the rest of his life.  In the meantime,  safety at mealtimes is your first priority,  I would have him on leash somewhere near where you prepare and take the food to him, doing as Beth suggested, walking away if he barks, approaching if he behaves.  I would not bother him once he is given permission to eat.  Feeding him in a crate avoids problems, but teaches him nothing.  At his young age, he needs to learn better behavior.  Obedience training classes are also in order as soon as feasible.

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