some info about collars
I have noticed many try to decide which collar would be the best for their dog. There are many options out there from a plain buckle collar to an electronic collar. It can be most confusing so I thought I would share some collar information with you.
It is good for your puppy to learn to wear a collar immediately. This is the first step totolerating to walking on lead. This is also a way for your dog to be easily identified if he can wear an identification tag. Do remember that the collar should be properly sized for safety. If you leave a collar on your dog at all times may I suggest a "breakaway" collar. Some can and do manages to catch themselves. If you are gone for long hours at a time or unable to safely supervise them this is a very good option.
Buckle collars made of made of nylon or leather are nice collars to begin walking your pup with. This offers just enough protection so your pup cant get away if properly fitted.
There are many different training collars available. Remember these collars are only as safe as the hands that are handling them. They should NEVER EVER be left on a dog unless he is walking on lead. Many can be quite dangerous on an unattended dog.
Chain collars - this has a slip effect so the collar can tighten and not slip over the dogs head. This is also used by many obedience trainers as a means for making "pop" corrections to a dog. These should not be used on young pups.
Martingale or Lupine collars - These colllars also have a slip effect but will not tighten beyond a specific point. These are great collars for a more gentle correction approach. These are also great for overweight corgis that can often slip a buckle collar.
Prong collars - I would rarely see the need to use this on corgis. This collar does put pressure at the points around the neck. In my obedience classes I generally recommend them for the larger "bullish" type dogs that were difficult to get their attention. Never would I consider them for a fearful or aggressive type dog. These should never be yanked on, used with a flexi lead or without proper instruction to use them. I have seen many dogs loose at a park wearing one of these or a chain collar. Recipe for disaster!
Gentle Leaders - I have found these useful for some dogs that are heavily distracted. Once again I would not use this on a young pup as they do need time to adjust to walking on lead and learning about the enviornment around them. These can be a great tool in the right hands as like with the prong collar they offer a self correction when a dog is pulling.
I would rarely see a use for an electronic collar unless someone was doing distance work in advanced training. Electronic collars can do far more harm then good unless being used by a kind and experienced trainer.
Harnesses - generally not a favorite of mine. I find that many dogs that use them are encouraged to pull more. One only need to look at how sled dogs are outfitted to pull. If you personally like them and your dog is a good walker already on lead they are fine.
Proper sized collars are also most important. When measuring for a chain collar measure around the largest part of the head and add two inches. When measuring for a regular buckle collar or martingale collar measure the neck and purchase a collar in the size range. Remember pups grow quickly so check the fit frequently. For prong collars and gentle leaders it is best to have an experienced person help you. Both are dangerous and pretty much useless for correction unless fitted properly. For harnesses they must be tried on. There are so many different designs available that trying on is the best way.
Hope you find this helpful in making good choices while purchasing collars.
It is good for your puppy to learn to wear a collar immediately. This is the first step totolerating to walking on lead. This is also a way for your dog to be easily identified if he can wear an identification tag. Do remember that the collar should be properly sized for safety. If you leave a collar on your dog at all times may I suggest a "breakaway" collar. Some can and do manages to catch themselves. If you are gone for long hours at a time or unable to safely supervise them this is a very good option.
Buckle collars made of made of nylon or leather are nice collars to begin walking your pup with. This offers just enough protection so your pup cant get away if properly fitted.
There are many different training collars available. Remember these collars are only as safe as the hands that are handling them. They should NEVER EVER be left on a dog unless he is walking on lead. Many can be quite dangerous on an unattended dog.
Chain collars - this has a slip effect so the collar can tighten and not slip over the dogs head. This is also used by many obedience trainers as a means for making "pop" corrections to a dog. These should not be used on young pups.
Martingale or Lupine collars - These colllars also have a slip effect but will not tighten beyond a specific point. These are great collars for a more gentle correction approach. These are also great for overweight corgis that can often slip a buckle collar.
Prong collars - I would rarely see the need to use this on corgis. This collar does put pressure at the points around the neck. In my obedience classes I generally recommend them for the larger "bullish" type dogs that were difficult to get their attention. Never would I consider them for a fearful or aggressive type dog. These should never be yanked on, used with a flexi lead or without proper instruction to use them. I have seen many dogs loose at a park wearing one of these or a chain collar. Recipe for disaster!
Gentle Leaders - I have found these useful for some dogs that are heavily distracted. Once again I would not use this on a young pup as they do need time to adjust to walking on lead and learning about the enviornment around them. These can be a great tool in the right hands as like with the prong collar they offer a self correction when a dog is pulling.
I would rarely see a use for an electronic collar unless someone was doing distance work in advanced training. Electronic collars can do far more harm then good unless being used by a kind and experienced trainer.
Harnesses - generally not a favorite of mine. I find that many dogs that use them are encouraged to pull more. One only need to look at how sled dogs are outfitted to pull. If you personally like them and your dog is a good walker already on lead they are fine.
Proper sized collars are also most important. When measuring for a chain collar measure around the largest part of the head and add two inches. When measuring for a regular buckle collar or martingale collar measure the neck and purchase a collar in the size range. Remember pups grow quickly so check the fit frequently. For prong collars and gentle leaders it is best to have an experienced person help you. Both are dangerous and pretty much useless for correction unless fitted properly. For harnesses they must be tried on. There are so many different designs available that trying on is the best way.
Hope you find this helpful in making good choices while purchasing collars.
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Sky and Lyla on
-
I agree that it would be safer to keep collars off of my dogs when they are outside. (I am very familiar with the horse world and know all about not leaving a halter on a turned out horse) However, when my dogs are outside are the times I feel the most need for their collars to be on simply because if they manage to get out, their tags are likely to be the thing that brings them back to me. Yes, you can microchip, but that is not completely effective since many people may not even take them to a vet or shelter to get them scanned and it is my understanding that not all scanners pick up all kind of microchips. Also, in my city, I can be fined a heavy amount if my dog is picked up without their rabies tags attached to them. My dogs once got out of the yard (they had only been out for 5 min, I do not leave my dogs out for long or very often) and the reason I got them back so quickly was because they had tags with my number on them. So, while I certainly see the safety value of not letting them outside without a collar on, I just don't see how I could feel comfortable doing it until I find a way to keep all their information on them outside without a collar.
-
Permalink Reply by Sarah C. on
-
Also I know that when we had a ranch, when we saw dogs that were un-collared, we assumed they were dumps or strays. If those dogs messed with the cattle, we shot them. Most of the dogs that were dumps there were starving and not safe to handle, on top of the fact that they could damage a considerable amount of money. Better safe than sorry. A collar could save your dog's life.
A corgi especially looks something like a coyote or a fox from a distance and through tall grass. I think an un-collared corgi wandering around somewhere over grown, where people might have chickens and things, could be a target. John Wolff put up an excellent post of his corgis in high grass. Easy mistake, and completely preventable.
-
Permalink Reply by Joanna Kimball on
-
Anyone who thinks that a corgi is a coyote or a fox isn't going to see or care about a collar.
In all my contacts with dog people, I've never heard of anyone's dog getting shot while loose. I know it happens, of course, but people who care about their dogs and are panicking because they are loose are not generally associated with dogs being shot. I also don't think a rancher heading out to SSS a dog is going to care whether the dog has a collar.
I've heard of (and experienced) collar accidents probably once a month. They're tragically common. Most are when a dog gets caught in another dog's collar while play-fighting; those cause injuries but not generally deaths. The deaths are from dogs catching collars on the tops of fences, the insides of crates, door knobs, etc. I can think of a half-dozen deaths that I know of in the last five years.
My dogs are properly licensed and have their rabies vaccines and are microchipped. A couple are tattooed too. They have ID tags (and their other tags) attached to collars that are put on when we leave the house, unless we're going to a show and their coats need to stay nice; in that case I have the ID information and rabies info in the car. But they do not wear collars for most of their entire lives. I believe (and I think the evidence supports this) that they'd be much more likely to die because of collars than because of not wearing them.
If you feel that you MUST have a collar, use a Beastie Band or similar that will break as soon as any real pressure is put on it. But those are going to come off when the dogs are playing or running around too.
-
-
I would say that in the environment you live in, that is probably so. However, not everyone lives in the same environment you do and different regions and situations bring in different considerations and concerns. Where I live now, I do not always collar my dogs. However, when I take them out in the country, they are collared 24/7, and not with break away collars. Their risks there are different (wild animals, other dogs, snakes and strangers). Also, the jingling of tags is like a cowbell or a catbell. Oh there's my dog!
As someone who has been in a situation where it was necessary to dispatch an animal, I have to disagree with your opening statement. As someone who might, from a truck a field away, mistake a dog for a wild animal, I really REALLY care if that animal is wearing a collar (or a halter, or a bandana). That little glint of color in the brush is a signal that the animal is owned, and probably not a threat to property. Like I said before, for someone who doesn't live in that situation, the point is moot, but for people who do, it is relevant.
-
Permalink Reply by John Wolff on
-
I just wonder if that constant jingling drives the dog nuts...just because rattles and stuff like that irritate me.
-
Permalink Reply by Geri & Sidney on
-
-
Permalink Reply by Mel K on
-
I do agree that dogs should not be left with their collars on. There are situations where this is almost a requirement but for many owners I just don't think they understand the potential disaster. Caleb goes 'nekid' unless we're out for walkies or working on training.
-
Permalink Reply by Holly on
-
I agree with the goal of getting the dog to walk with you on dental floss but I am not there yet. She sticks pretty close to me, but a passing chipmunk is all it takes for her to forget about me. I assumed the collars were used mainly to hold the license and ID tags. I think of them as one way to let others know the dog is not a stray. I am very grateful for the tip to remove the collar whenever she is unsupervised! Thanks to all for the lifesaving tips!
-
-
I'd also like to add that training collars also shouldn't be left on at the dog park. I see tons of people do this.
-
Permalink Reply by Christine Glossman on
-
If you like the Martingale Collar you can buy one and contribute to a very good cause at the same time. I have 3 collars from this gal and they are excellent.
Help Support Breast Cancer Awareness
If It Wags is giving $3.00 for each pink dog collar and pink dog leash sold in the month of October to Breast Cancer Awareness. Check us out at -
www.ifitwags.com - Attachments:
-
-
wagspink.gif, 14 KB
-
-
Permalink Reply by Jeannine on
-
Hi, Spice has a problem with her neck and the vet has said not to use a collar but to use a harness. I am wondering if any of you have any experience with a harness that works? I have spent a small fortune trying to find the correct harness and I am still having problems. The latest one is a step in model. I seems to be the best of all of them but it appears to bind on her front legs. Any suggestions?????
-
Permalink Reply by Sylvia & Timmy on
-
Hi, Timmy has this problem with harnesses. I was finally able to use the "Buddy Harness". It is leather, well suited to a corgis body, (designer has dachshunds), and has a soft liner that can be used on the straps that go under the "arms". I used "Sassy Pup.net" (no connection) and service was quick and their customer service very helpful. Just make sure you measure correctly (info onsite) and I'm sure you would be pleased as I am.
Rescue Store
Stay Connected
FDA Recall
Canadian Food Inspection Agency Recall
Groups
We support...
Badge
© 2024 Created by Sam Tsang.
Powered by
