The Comprehensive Corgi Guide- A Resource for New and Future Owners

Guys, I finished that thing I made you guys give me ideas for!  I think I covered everything everyone mentioned.  If I missed it or didn't cover it thoroughly enough, chances are, I am planning on writing more details about it in more posts. 

 

http://ownresponsibly.blogspot.com/2011/07/comprehensive-corgi-guid...

 

Table of Contents

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01. A Brief History- Touches upon the origin of the Pembroke Welsh Corgi

02.The Tail of Two Corgis- Describes the general differences between the Pembroke and Cardigan Welsh Corgis

03. So I Heard You Like Herding- A discussion on how the Corgi’s historical purpose affects its attitudes, personality, and habits

04. A Short Dog’s Shortcomings- Describes the health issues one should be prepared to deal with in a Corgi

05. A Hairy Situation- Shedding and grooming are briefly described

06. Final Rebarks- Closing this massive document

 

A Brief History- 01

Pembroke Welsh Corgis have been around since 1107 AD in some way, shape, or form.  They certainly didn’t look how they look today, but there are historical records describing a short-legged dog used for driving cattle in ye olde Pembrokeshire, Wales.  Though the origins are murky, it is suspected that the Pembroke came about as a result of the Cardigan Welsh Corgi allowed to interbreed with Flemish Spitz-type dogs.  Despite the Pembroke’s antiquity, the breed was not recognized by the AKC until 1934, and the older Cardigan was not AKC recognized until 1935.  Prior to the AKC distinction of the breeds, the two were allowed to interbreed freely.  If you are interested in seeing how the Pembroke Welsh Corgi has changed since the early 1900’s, please check out Corgis of the Past.

 

The Tail of Two Corgis- 02

The two Corgis are similar in appearance in that they both are low, deep-chested dogs, but they have their differences.   Of course, the most obvious difference is that the Cardigan is tailed, and the Pembroke has a docked or natural bob tail.  However, in many places outside of the US, the Pembroke also has a long, luxurious tail.  How is anyone supposed to tell the difference if both dogs have tails?  In general, the Cardigan is a larger dog—taller, heavier in weight, and heavier-boned.  The Cardigan is also rounder, sporting rounded ears and “round” feet, where the toes are all the same length.  They have a much wider range of acceptable colors, too.  In regards to personality, the Pembroke is the more friendly and social of the two, while the Cardigan tends to be more aloof.  For ease of comparison, their most noticeable differences have been charted below. 

 

 

Pembroke Welsh Corgi

Cardigan Welsh Corgi

Height

10 to 12”

10.5 to 12.5”

Weight

Dogs 27-30 lbs; Bitches 25-28 lbs

Dogs 30-38 lbs; Bitches 25-34 lbs

Colors

Red, Sable, Tricolor

Red, Sable, Tricolor, Brindle, Merle, Black

Ears

Pointed

Rounded

Feet

Oval

Round

Expression

Intelligent and interested, not sly

Alert, gentle, watchful, and friendly

Temperament

Bold, kindly

Adaptable, loyal, affectionate, even-tempered

Impress your friends, neighbors, and strangers when you inevitably have to tell them the difference between the two Corgis! 

 

So I Heard You Like Herding- 03

There is something about Corgis that draws people to them.  Perhaps it is those wonderful stumpy legs, that bunny butt, or even those huge satellite-dish ears.   Most people who fall in love with Corgis fall in love with how they look—and that’s okay!  But, adopting a dog based solely on looks can have serious consequences for all involved.  Corgis often surprise uneducated owners because they do what they were bred to do, and that does not usually coincide with the owners’ expectations. 

 

Corgis are herding dogs.  They were bred to herd cattle and they take a hands-on approach to doing so.  Unlike Border Collies, which herd sheep by eyeing and stalking, Corgis herd by biting and barking until they can get the cattle to move.  This behavior is instinctual and, for some Corgis, manifests itself in the home; Corgis will herd you, the cat, other dogs, and especially children.  This means that they nip and bite in an attempt to get you to go where they want you to go.  When you bring a Corgi home, you must prepare to deal with such behavior.  Warn your children and your guests, and have a plan in place to teach your Corgi that such actions are unacceptable inside the house. 

 

The herding instinct also manifests itself in play through barking at things that move, aren’t moving, or in general aren’t doing what the Corgi wants them to do.  If quiet is a concern inside or out, you may want to consider a different breed, or be prepared to stop play when things get out of hand.  At the dog park, a Corgi may run around and bark at other dogs playing, seemingly policing their activities.  A Corgi will almost certainly bark when playing soccer with the family, or when doing any other activity that may simulate herding.  Corgis are watchful dogs, too, and they will bark when they feel it is necessary to alert the family.  Doorbells, keys, and movement outside are all typical barking triggers.  In a similar vein, Corgis are very vocal when nothing is happening!  They often “talk” to express any number of feelings, a trait considered endearing by many.

 

Herding requires a certain level of intelligence.  The dog must be able to work independently of its handler, determine the best course of action in a constantly changing environment, solve problems, and accomplish goals as a team, among other necessities.  Corgis have the intellect to do all those things and then much more. They know what they want and they know how to get it, and are very stubborn as a result.  They can’t be pushed around—indeed, you must make a Corgi think something was their idea before they will submit to it.  They will learn from you even when you think you aren’t teaching.  They will boss you around if you let them.  Worst of all, they make well-thought decisions, and then they act on them.  With a dog this smart, you need to be one step ahead at all times.  Obedience training is a must for Corgis, or else they will get the best of you.  Intelligent dogs can be challenging for any dog owner, but patience, understanding, and willingness to compromise make things significantly easier on both parties.  

 

In addition to contributing to the mental state of the Corgi, their herding heritage contributes to their physical state.  Many people see a Corgi and think of it as a small dog that has little exercise needs, and they classify it as being an “apartment dog” based on its size.  This is false in many ways.  For one, a Corgi is a medium sized dog with no legs, not a small dog.  Secondly, herding is a physically demanding job, and Corgis are able to fill it.  They have high energy requirements in a seemingly small package and do no better in a big house than they would in an apartment if they do not meet those requirements.   Third, their short legs often deceive people into thinking they are slow, lumbering movers, when any Corgi owner could tell you that they are dogs built like bullets with a speed to match.  What good is a herder if they cannot even keep up with their herd? 

 

High energy combined with lots of smarts lends itself to disaster when the dog is not properly cared for.  A bored dog, no matter the breed, will find a way to reduce its boredom—typically through destruction of the home.  It’s imperative that Corgis receive appropriate amounts of exercise to avoid this outcome.   A tired Corgi is a dog that is not causing problems, be it destruction, barking, herding of children, or any other undesired behavior.  Activities to work the Corgi’s brain are also a requirement.  After all, a mind is a terrible thing to waste!

 

A Short Dog’s Shortcomings- 04

Although some people may consider their herding-derived behaviors undesirable, a dedicated owner can minimize their effects by being mentally prepared for the tasks that their Corgis will pit them against.  There are, however, numerous physical problems that no amount of training can ever correct, and that you really can never be truly prepared to deal with.  However, “not ever being truly prepared” is never an excuse for not being informed!

 

Unfortunately, the height of the Corgi causes more than just an adorable outline; what makes a Corgi short is also the root of most of its health problems.  Their short legs are the result of a genetic mutation causing achondroplastic dwarfism, or chondrodystrophy.  The mutation alters the growth and development of cartilage, while also causing an early breakdown of it, throughout the body.  As such, Corgis are prone to a number of skeletal issues.

 

The growth plates that cause bones to grow are normally thick, producing bone systematically until sex hormones trigger growth to stop.  In the Corgi and other dwarfed dogs, the growth plates are very thin, reproducing incorrectly and sporadically and then maturing much sooner than normal, therefore producing a gnarled, shortened bone.  The fragile growth plates lend themselves to easy injury.  An injured growth plate is at risk for causing one bone to stop growth while the rest continue, producing a twisted or bowed limb that can be painful and is certainly not sound.  How does a dog injure a growth plate?  Overexertion.  High-impact activities such as running or jumping can crush the plate.  It’s very important to limit such activities until the Corgi is fully grown at around 1-1.5 years.

 

The joints in a dwarfed dog are very different from the joints in a standard dog—like the rest of the dog’s skeletal system, they are deformed.  In fact, if the same joints were on an average dog, they would certainly be considered dysplastic.  In a Corgi, these types of seemingly dysplastic joints are normal and allow easy, pain-free movement.    But, as in standard dogs, dwarves do have varying degrees of joint quality and are capable of coming down with hip or elbow dysplasia.  The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, or the OFA, evaluates the joint health of any breed of dog.  All dogs should be OFA tested and pass with “excellent” or “good” evaluations before being bred to reduce the occurrence of crippling joint disorders in the offspring and, ultimately, the population at large. 

 

The rapid cartilage degeneration in a Corgi is the most painful and most dangerous ailment afflicting the breed.   Cartilage is a connective tissue that cushions joints as well as holds them together.  Because cartilage wears down faster in dwarfed dogs, osteoarthritis may develop at an early age—particularly in areas with small bones, such as the wrist or feet.  Spinal arthritis is almost guaranteed at some point in the Corgis life, occurring much earlier than it typically would in a standard dog.  Finally, the Corgi is at high risk for a condition called intervertebral disc disease, or IVDD.  In dwarf dogs, the normally squishy disc between the vertebrae in the spine hardens prematurely and severely reduces spine flexibility.  When the discs are forced to compress or stretch, the disc can rupture and what squishy insides that are left can put pressure on the spinal cord and surrounding nerves.  IVDD has various degrees, from mild back pain to complete paralysis.  It’s very painful and, worst of all, can strike early.  All Corgis have imperfect spines, but to what degree?  The amount of degeneration in the spine depends on several factors, including jumping, intense exercise, rough handling, and obesity.

 

Obesity for Corgis is more than just a cosmetic problem.  It can be a death sentence.  The extra weight pulls on the spine and aggravates the joints, precipitating problems that otherwise may not have occurred.  Corgis are nothing if not motivated by food, but it is essential that weight is carefully monitored.  It’s very easy for a Corgi to gain weight.  A good exercise regime and appropriate portions of food are quite necessary for a Corgi’s health.  If you notice your Corgi getting fat, step up the walks and cut back the food.  A Corgi with lightly padded ribs and a tucked loin is a Corgi that is going to live a longer, happier life. 

 

At the twilight of a Corgi’s life, obese or not, there is one last problem owners need to worry about: degenerative myleopathy, or DM.  DM is an autoimmune disease where the body’s immune system attacks the nervous system, causing progressive hind-end loss.  The age of onset is typically 8 and above and, when noticed, typically means a dog has 6 to 12 months to live as the paralysis works its way up the spine.  It’s also completely painless.  There is a DNA test which identifies at risk dogs; currently, 60% of Pembrokes test “at risk” for the disease. Most “at risk” dogs do not come down with DM, which indicates something else is afoot in the onset of the disease.  Until researches identify what that “something else” is, DM is best avoided by caring for your Corgi the best way you can and hoping it doesn’t strike.  All things considered, DM isn’t the most terrible way for a Corgi to end its life provided both you and the dog have the proper support you need. 

 

Two other diseases that are routinely tested for in breeding stock are progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and Von Willebrand’s disease (vWD).  PRA is just what it sounds like, a progressive loss of function in the retina that leads to eventual blindness.  Corgis begin showing signs around the middle of their life span.  The Canine Eye Registration Foundation, CERF, will evaluate the condition of the Corgi’s retinas.  There is a genetic component to this disease as well that is easily identified.  Von Willebrand’s disease is a bleeding disorder common to many breeds and can be avoided by a simple genetic test.  Thankfully, due to testing and appropriate breeding, the occurrence of these diseases is rather small in the Corgi population. 

 

If you notice your Corgi acting stiff, losing hind limb function, limping, or otherwise in pain without an immediate source, take your dog to the vet.  It could be a sign of musculoskeletal stress, and with these sorts of injuries, quicker attention to the problem means better results on the path to recovery.

 

A Hairy Situation- 05

The Corgi has a wonderfully made double coat that keeps them warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  The quality of the hair is just right so that after a day of moving cattle in muddy fields, no bath is required—the dirt will fall right out as the coat dries.  The coat is truly a marvel to behold, but it comes at a price: shed hair, everywhere.  No surface, food, or drink is immune to the scourge of the Corgi coat.  No amount of brushing, blow drying, bathing, Furminating, or any other sort of grooming will stop the encroachment of shed hair into your life.  The amount they shed is phenomenal. 

 

Imagine, if you will, the greatest amount of hair you can feasibly foresee coming off an animal.  Now, imagine two or three times that amount.  That is a rough estimate of how much Corgis shed, and probably an underestimate at that.  If you are not okay with a dog shedding its weight in hair every month, a Corgi certainly is not for you.  This warning may seem like a gross exaggeration of what should be a minor part of everyday dog ownership, but it is something many cannot comprehend until they experience it first-hand—and by then, it is too late.

 

Besides almost constant brushing to keep the shedding low, the coat needs little maintenance—bathing more than once every couple of months is unnecessary unless the Corgi in question has become unspeakably disgusting.  In addition, the coat should never be shaved, as it compromises long-term quality of the coat.  The Corgi’s short stature also lends itself to more coat maintenance on rainy days; when a tall dog would normally get just his feet wet, a Corgi’s whole underside will be soaked.  In terms of other grooming, Corgis need care just like every other dog—nails trimmed and teeth cleaned. 

 

Final Rebarks- 06

Like all dogs, Corgis need to be socialized very well or they can develop serious aggressive issues.  They require basic obedience using consistent, positive methods or they may become very unruly.  They need a lot of exercise and mental workouts to keep them out of trouble, quiet, and in tip-top shape.  Without proper care, Corgis can become very difficult to manage.  You must be dedicated to these dogs in order to make it work out, but they will become dedicated to you in return. 

 

When you get a Corgi, you are gaining a member of the family.  They are not dogs that you can “set and forget”—they thrive on human interaction.  They don’t need to be constantly entertained; simply being with the family is enough.  They are incredibly loving, wonderful animals, and no amount of hair will make any dedicated Corgi owner regret their decision.  If you are seeking a somewhat challenging, intelligent, sensitive, bold, vocal, and very social animal, a Corgi is it.

 

Remember, all dogs are individuals and may not conform to breed standard.  To maximize the chances of getting what you want out of your Corgi, and to minimize the occurrence of health problems, seek responsible, reputable breeders.  Never buy a dog from anyone or anywhere else.  If at all possible, rescue your pal from a local shelter or Corgi rescue organization!  For additional help in deciding if, what, where, why, and how to adopt, please feel free to browse my other posts.

 

Thanks to the members of Mycorgi.com and Corizma Corgis for helping me to write this article, and thanks for reading.  My next post will be about owner responsibilities outside of the home.  

 

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Replies to This Discussion

congratulations on a job well done!

Very informative and understandable to any reader. I laughed at a bunch of parts, especially the speed like a bullet (it still surprises me when Maya takes off on our dirt track). Way to go!

Thank you, Rachael! This is very helpful. So much of your description I definitely see in Lucy! And, yes, puppy training (which I did) and socialization (with other dogs and people) have paid off big time. Lucy, of course, is not perfect, but her friendliness and playfulness endear her to everyone who meets her. She is phenomenal at playing with all kinds of dogs, too--from Newfies to little white balls of fluff (a breed from Madagascar--forget the name). I swear she has a sense of humor!

She is 11 months now, 21.5 pounds and an absolute delight. Even when I need to take her out at 5 am! Oh, and I call her "my little torpedo." Fast does not begin to describe her!

Dino agrees with that and tried to "like it " again.

I'm posting here just to 'bump' this up to the top since we seem to have a lot of new members with new pups that have questions. I'm betting this will answer a lot of them!

Thanks Rachel, this is excellent resource!

However, reading the parts about the many potential health issues got me really worried. We've had our Corgi (Missy) for over 8 months (currently 11 months old) and we're not aware that we should avoid too much running/exercise until after a year old. I know Corgis are active work dogs so I made effort to get Missy to exercise and run daily since she was 5 mths old. She now runs/jogs 1.5-2 miles on average daily. I hope I didn't aggravate any possible joint/skeletal/cartilage problems. She seems fine now and and is looking lean and healthy.

Still I am worried and would like to get Missy checked. Would a regular vet be able to perform a through check to identify possible health issues that you have listed? Or is there something else I should do now i.e. stop the running, to avoid further possible damage?

I am no vet, but afaik, that's probably not necessary!  The biggest issue with excessive running/jumping before being fully grown is a growth plate injury, and you'd know if she injured herself because it would be painful and also her arm would probably be growing weird.  Her joints are as bendy and flexible as they're ever going to be, so I would think that's not a concern, also.  It's not like Corgis are made of glass and running them daily before 1.5 yrs is going to cripple them, but there's less of a risk for a serious growth plate injury by limiting running on hard surfaces, etc.  A good rule of thumb I use for my Corgi, now 3 years and has suffered from multiple back injuries as a result of overexertion, is high intensity exercise on low impact surfaces, medium intensity exercise on medium impact surfaces, and low intensity exercise on high impact surfaces.  So, heavy running and jumping would ideally occur on sand or pretty soft soil, jogging or light running on dirt/grass, walking on pavement, etc.  Unfortunately, these rules don't protect against freak injuries while rock climbing or doing other super rad things, but you can't protect your dog from everything or their existence is just going to be sad.  

Well i doubt i can stop her from running anyway...but I will stop doing the many 'super rad things' we do at home to keep her entertained.

Your rule of thumb makes sense, it'll be my guide as well. Was reading your blog earlier. Good stuff! Hope you resume writing...thanks again for all the info!

When I get my ducks in a row, I will certainly begin work on my blog again.  I'm glad you like it, and thanks for reading!

I want one!

 

Wait a minute, I already have one.

Hi there.  I read your article with interest, and would like to comment on your statements below:

How does a dog injure a growth plate?  Overexertion.  High-impact activities such as running or jumping can crush the plate.  It’s very important to limit such activities until the Corgi is fully grown at around 1-1.5 years.

I'll preface this by saying I am not a veterinarian or other health expert, but I have raised 3 Corgi puppies.  While I understand that this behavior is something that may be desirable strictly form a neuromuscular-skeletal perspective, as anyone knows, it is impossible to stop a Corgi, or any puppy, from running or jumping.  I like that you clarified somewhat, in a response above, about the 'proper' surface, appropriate for certain activities (which may be relevant to add to the article itself), but the fact is, limiting natural inclinations is not possible.  If you were meaning, by 'limiting', to avoid intentional excess running, such as herding trials, or agility, then, great.  Also, limiting the height from which our Corgis jump can reasonably be accomplished...our vet suggested no jumping from a point higher than 4 inches  I just wanted to make sure that a person who may not have any experience with puppies/dogs, or Corgis in particular, don't get the idea that you have to try to keep their new best friend sedentary for the first year of the puppy's life.  Again, you may wish to add some clarification to your article.

Submiitted respectfully for your consideration,

Curt Basner

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