some info about collars
I have noticed many try to decide which collar would be the best for their dog. There are many options out there from a plain buckle collar to an electronic collar. It can be most confusing so I thought I would share some collar information with you.
It is good for your puppy to learn to wear a collar immediately. This is the first step totolerating to walking on lead. This is also a way for your dog to be easily identified if he can wear an identification tag. Do remember that the collar should be properly sized for safety. If you leave a collar on your dog at all times may I suggest a "breakaway" collar. Some can and do manages to catch themselves. If you are gone for long hours at a time or unable to safely supervise them this is a very good option.
Buckle collars made of made of nylon or leather are nice collars to begin walking your pup with. This offers just enough protection so your pup cant get away if properly fitted.
There are many different training collars available. Remember these collars are only as safe as the hands that are handling them. They should NEVER EVER be left on a dog unless he is walking on lead. Many can be quite dangerous on an unattended dog.
Chain collars - this has a slip effect so the collar can tighten and not slip over the dogs head. This is also used by many obedience trainers as a means for making "pop" corrections to a dog. These should not be used on young pups.
Martingale or Lupine collars - These colllars also have a slip effect but will not tighten beyond a specific point. These are great collars for a more gentle correction approach. These are also great for overweight corgis that can often slip a buckle collar.
Prong collars - I would rarely see the need to use this on corgis. This collar does put pressure at the points around the neck. In my obedience classes I generally recommend them for the larger "bullish" type dogs that were difficult to get their attention. Never would I consider them for a fearful or aggressive type dog. These should never be yanked on, used with a flexi lead or without proper instruction to use them. I have seen many dogs loose at a park wearing one of these or a chain collar. Recipe for disaster!
Gentle Leaders - I have found these useful for some dogs that are heavily distracted. Once again I would not use this on a young pup as they do need time to adjust to walking on lead and learning about the enviornment around them. These can be a great tool in the right hands as like with the prong collar they offer a self correction when a dog is pulling.
I would rarely see a use for an electronic collar unless someone was doing distance work in advanced training. Electronic collars can do far more harm then good unless being used by a kind and experienced trainer.
Harnesses - generally not a favorite of mine. I find that many dogs that use them are encouraged to pull more. One only need to look at how sled dogs are outfitted to pull. If you personally like them and your dog is a good walker already on lead they are fine.
Proper sized collars are also most important. When measuring for a chain collar measure around the largest part of the head and add two inches. When measuring for a regular buckle collar or martingale collar measure the neck and purchase a collar in the size range. Remember pups grow quickly so check the fit frequently. For prong collars and gentle leaders it is best to have an experienced person help you. Both are dangerous and pretty much useless for correction unless fitted properly. For harnesses they must be tried on. There are so many different designs available that trying on is the best way.
Hope you find this helpful in making good choices while purchasing collars.
It is good for your puppy to learn to wear a collar immediately. This is the first step totolerating to walking on lead. This is also a way for your dog to be easily identified if he can wear an identification tag. Do remember that the collar should be properly sized for safety. If you leave a collar on your dog at all times may I suggest a "breakaway" collar. Some can and do manages to catch themselves. If you are gone for long hours at a time or unable to safely supervise them this is a very good option.
Buckle collars made of made of nylon or leather are nice collars to begin walking your pup with. This offers just enough protection so your pup cant get away if properly fitted.
There are many different training collars available. Remember these collars are only as safe as the hands that are handling them. They should NEVER EVER be left on a dog unless he is walking on lead. Many can be quite dangerous on an unattended dog.
Chain collars - this has a slip effect so the collar can tighten and not slip over the dogs head. This is also used by many obedience trainers as a means for making "pop" corrections to a dog. These should not be used on young pups.
Martingale or Lupine collars - These colllars also have a slip effect but will not tighten beyond a specific point. These are great collars for a more gentle correction approach. These are also great for overweight corgis that can often slip a buckle collar.
Prong collars - I would rarely see the need to use this on corgis. This collar does put pressure at the points around the neck. In my obedience classes I generally recommend them for the larger "bullish" type dogs that were difficult to get their attention. Never would I consider them for a fearful or aggressive type dog. These should never be yanked on, used with a flexi lead or without proper instruction to use them. I have seen many dogs loose at a park wearing one of these or a chain collar. Recipe for disaster!
Gentle Leaders - I have found these useful for some dogs that are heavily distracted. Once again I would not use this on a young pup as they do need time to adjust to walking on lead and learning about the enviornment around them. These can be a great tool in the right hands as like with the prong collar they offer a self correction when a dog is pulling.
I would rarely see a use for an electronic collar unless someone was doing distance work in advanced training. Electronic collars can do far more harm then good unless being used by a kind and experienced trainer.
Harnesses - generally not a favorite of mine. I find that many dogs that use them are encouraged to pull more. One only need to look at how sled dogs are outfitted to pull. If you personally like them and your dog is a good walker already on lead they are fine.
Proper sized collars are also most important. When measuring for a chain collar measure around the largest part of the head and add two inches. When measuring for a regular buckle collar or martingale collar measure the neck and purchase a collar in the size range. Remember pups grow quickly so check the fit frequently. For prong collars and gentle leaders it is best to have an experienced person help you. Both are dangerous and pretty much useless for correction unless fitted properly. For harnesses they must be tried on. There are so many different designs available that trying on is the best way.
Hope you find this helpful in making good choices while purchasing collars.
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Monty'sMom on
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We use a regular nylon buckle collar for quick potty walks out back and holds his tags. For longer walks we now use the Premier Sure Fit Harness and attach the leash to the front ring even though there is a D ring on the back. This way when he pulls it actually makes him stop and saves any pulling on our arms. It has been great and including training along the walks thanks to techniques learned in a new positive training class we are having so much fun. We did try their easy walk harness but it didn't fit as nicely as the Sure Fit harness because of his short legs.
Lesson learned: If you start reading any books on positive training (McConnell, Miller, Dunbar etc) they are all against choke collars of any kind and with very good science behind why. We took Monty to a local trainer who said he did positive training but still used choke collars. As Monty was a puller we couldn't stomach using it and ended up with a gentle leader head collar, however the methods used by this trainer didn't really fit with using this type of collar. I knew we needed some other way and I saw someone recommend The Other End of the Leash and I have not turned back. In fact I am now a member of "No Shock Collar Coalition". I then looked for a certified trainer and someone recommended by Truly Dog Friendly.com. It has been wonderful.
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Permalink Reply by Corgibyassociation on
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I went to Petsmart this weekend and when the Trainer was going goo goo gaga over Freya, I asked for her advice on collars. I was looking at a choke and she said that if the Martingale isn't working then the choke won't either. I told her I was looking at the easy walk harness and none of them fit her cause she was too small for it. So the lady grabbed a regular harness and told me to use the ring in the front of the chest instead of the d-ring on the back.
I have to say, Freya walked way better (while in the store) but when we walked she would pull to be with her brother. She hates to be last. She can't pull as hard as she did with the martingale and she'll get tripped up cause of the leash, but at least she isn't choking herself.
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Permalink Reply by mosesbotbol on
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Camber is tough to fit for a collar. She is a small Corgi and too big for the small collar, but the bigger collar looks too wide. We've been looking for a hip fashion collar like Prada, Burberry or Gucci, but haven't found the best match for her size and fur. This collar would be solely her "out on the town" collar. We can't strut her around the fashion district in a $2 Petco collar, now can we (although we already have, hush hush)?
Do you prefer contrasting or complimenting colors for a dog collar?
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Permalink Reply by Sam on
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I personally really like my leather rolled collars. Some of the girls also have their floral collars to wear at events. Fun to make and pretty!
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How do you make them Sam?
I've been trying to find a complimenting color for my pup but it is hard. Most of it blue and I have way too many people think she's a boy and it drives me nuts (I blame all the racial confusion people had about me so I take it a bit too personally now, I guess.)
At any rate, I really want a purple collar for Freya. Not sure the design though...so long as it is purple, I don't care. I also need to get a tag too...sigh...so many things to buy.
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Permalink Reply by Derek on
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I am not sure what you mean by fancy collars or what you like, but I would try this website. The collars are nice leather, not flimsy and they are very shiny.
http://www.doggiedesigner.com/leashes/leashes.htm
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Permalink Reply by Geri & Sidney on
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I found Sidney a pretty "English Plaid" in orange, green and brown. It goes very nicely with his coat. It'a a Martingale, which we have very good luck with. He only wears this one when going out.
The rest of the time he wears a buckle collar with his tags.
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Permalink Reply by Jane Christensen on
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I've seen the plaid martingales too...they're very nice looking!
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Best thing was, it was on clearance! :)
The brand was Lola and Foxy...check them out! Too cute.
http://www.lolaandfoxy.com/
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I have always used the plastic snap collars and they have never been a problem, but my dogs do not pull on leash (very hard) I would never use them with a larger, more powerful animal. I think also it helps to take the collar off of your dog at night. If they are asleep and inside, it gives the dog time to air out its neck, scratch that hard to reach spot.
It is also a good time for the owner to check and make sure the collar is not too tight. I hate it when I see inbedded collars in a dog. There is not reason for it, and it is a serious health risk. Taking off the collar at night is beneficial also because it gives you a chance to clean it, to clean their neck under the collar, check for adjustments, and of course scratch that one special spot.
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Permalink Reply by Sky and Lyla on
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When I was at Agility class the other night, my instructor recommended a "no-pull" harness. Sky has a tendency to get over-stimulated easily, and when he gets excited like this he just pulls and pulls and nothing will stop him. I have a gentle leader, had it for almost a year, if I put it on him, he sits and won't budge and no amount of treats will get him to move. My instructor told me that the same company that makes the gentle leader makes a harness called the Easy Walker. You clip the leash in the front and when the dog pulls with turns them around. She said she's had great success with them in her puppy classes and for dogs like Sky that are good normally but just need a little something extra in exciting situations.
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Permalink Reply by Joanna Kimball on
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Personally, I think that no collar should EVER be left on a dog when you're not supervising them. Our dogs go naked 99% of the time. As a breeder I've heard of many, many, many incidents, including deaths, because dogs get collars caught on things. The horse world knows this and never leaves a halter on a horse; we should be following that wise practice.
I think there is a very valid place for just about every collar, including an e-collar. Much better trainers than I use e-collars and they're considered a vital part of very-long-distance training like hunt test training. I don't personally use them but I don't dis them either.
Most show breeders would agree that the very "best" collar is a thin choke; there's a reason we use them in the ring. You can ask a dog to shift one foot by an inch using your pinkie finger if the dog is wearing a thin choke properly. However, they're also the most dangerous collar for untrained people to use. So I would never want anyone to use one if they didn't know what they were doing or if the dog was out of control.
I think prong collars are the very safest collars for novices to use, especially if the dog has pulling issues. Prongs do NOT hurt (put one on your own arm and see; and dogs have much thicker skin and hair) and they prevent the pressure on the trachea that causes injuries, even in flat buckle collars. Prongs help the dog feel its own neck again, often after years of ignoring leash signals.
I would NEVER use a gentle leader or other head halter on any dog whose head is lower than my own hand. When you pull on one or when a dog pulls backward or forward, the head is torqued upwards and to the side - put your hand on your own chin and force it up and to the side and see how much pressure feels safe to you. Not very much, right? But dogs can end up with their entire weight on the halter. Head halters are safe when they're used like horse halters, with the pull DOWN. I owned a couple for our Great Danes for walking in crowds when I didn't want to use the prongs (because people assume that a dog on a prong collar is dangerous, for some stupid reason), but I was very careful with them and I didn't like using them.
Easy-pull harnesses don't train the dog not to pull; they just prevent the dog from pulling effectively. They prevent pulling like a fence prevents running away. Remove the fence, remove the harness, the dog is still the same and has not learned anything. So use one, sure, but it should be a stopgap as you TRAIN the dog to not pull.
And that's the main point of the whole process - the goal of using a collar should be to use no collar. They're supposed to be training TOOLS, not the end in themselves. A dog should be able to walk with you on dental floss, and be happy about it and not confused as to what its job is. Whatever methods you use to get to that point are a lot less important than remembering that the goal is to get rid of the tool entirely.
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